Engine is rebuilt and zipped up. I prep the block for paint by rubbing it down with 0000 steel wool and then wiping it down with a light solvent like starting fluid.

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... i.jpg.html

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... o.jpg.html

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... j.jpg.html

I use the thin cheapy manifold gasket on the head, tape the holes and use pieces of cardboard from dry cleaner hangers on the manifold studs to hold the gasket in place (pinch the cardboard tube so it holds firm on the stud). Milk jug caps fit in the drool tube holes, fyi. I cut a paper cup to cover the crank in the timing cover, the rest is masking tape. If anyone is interested, I use Aervoe 550 Ford Red (they didn't have Chrysler red...but this is really close). That Aervoe paint covers well and goes on like glass, no runs. you can get it here for $5/can: http://www.perfectengine.com/Ford_Red_E ... er-550.htm

with the tape off:

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... 3.jpg.html

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... e.jpg.html

Likely week after next for break in, I have to travel this weekend.

fyi,

Brian

_________________
https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

Prettier than they came off the line!

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

VERY nice work!

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I had some serious help on the rebuild (special thanks to Dr. D).

b

_________________
https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

Cool! Hope it runs well and lets you enjoy the car. Maybe hit some Slant 6 races?

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I'll be happy as a lark, if this build lasts me a long time...and hoping it runs great as well of course. No drag races for me, I'm more of a cruiser and highway man these days...2.76 gears.

b

_________________
https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

Did you find a specific source for your vibration?

Looks great by the way! And hope it rund for 750,000 miles trouble free!

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

The crank guy said the crank was "bent" or off by 0.006". I wasn't sure if he meant the rear main journal or the crank itself was off center line. Anyway, that rear bearing was tore up badly and the rear seal (though it looked in good shape when I tore it down) was leaking like crazy. It was a rope seal and was washed clean with so much oil running through it or past it. The rope seal definitely didn't spin or move, and the ends were still glued together well, but it may have been crushed by vibration of the crank - oil was coming out pretty good.

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... .html?o=23

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... .html?o=23

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... .html?o=23

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... .html?o=23


So, I think it was the crank. The shop said that the main bores were perfectly to spec.; didn't need align honing. They fixed the crank, reworked and polished the journals and spin balanced it (I noted a few places where they apparently removed some material during balancing). After balancing, he said it was "perfect" in the rear and varied only by 0.5g in the front.

I also noted that #6 wrist pin had a bit of a sticky rotational spot, could have been damage there. I hung new pistons on reconditioned rods, checked all the weights, all pistons and all rods were within a fraction of an ounce of each other in weight.

Hopefully that solves the vibration issue, there was definitely enough damage to warrant the rebuild, regardless.

_________________
https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

I'm a little clumsy myself....but a bent crank?

.......I just carry my cranks down the stairs....

_________________
Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

That is one fine looking slant. For those of you doing the heater bypass, there is a perfect pre-formed hose that works great. Dayco # 87617.
There is enough to trim off to also use for the bypass section.

I like this hose because it looks like it was made for the slant.

_________________
-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

Matt,

I like your slant! That blue is really nice.

I use regular heater hose, but I do run a Dayco 87792 "S" shaped hose for the heater hose hookups, because you can run them under the alternator and in front of the head under the valve cover.

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... html?o=173

That way you can run 90 degree hoses off the firewall and the valve cover can be taken off and on easily without unhooking or otherwise disturbing heater hoses.

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... html?o=173

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... html?o=173

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... html?o=173

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... html?o=173

Hey, what brand of valve cover is that? It looks really nice. I'll post a pic of my new one shortly.

Brian

_________________
https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

Thanks. The valve cover is just one of those spectra chrome ones with chrome trim 'fins' and black paint between them. Just something to set it off from the pack (like a slant isn't different enough).

A little harder to see is this one, all wrinkle black with an insane number of 'fins'.

_________________
-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

Matt, that's a rilly interesting belt drive and alternator bracket setup you've got there. Info, plee-uz?

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Probly this guy again, as usual.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Side question: is there any benefit to running a bypass hose between the heater hookups, as opposed to capping them both off?

_________________
Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing