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early A, help routing exhaust w/ Clifford headers & 833
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Author:  CruzinFNC [ Thu Dec 22, 2016 10:04 am ]
Post subject:  early A, help routing exhaust w/ Clifford headers & 833
Hey Folks, I need some help!
I have a 66 Valiant w/ an 833 OD and just completed my engine build by installing a Clifford 4bbl intake and Clifford shorty headers. I figured I'd run 2" pipes into a 2x 2" into 2.5" Y collector. I just took the car into my local exhaust shop ...and he said it's impossible to do this installation with the 4spd linkage. :x

I'm sure it's tight but I can't be the only one with an 833 in an early A body doing this. Has anyone out there done this? If so, could you share pictures of it from different angles so I can show the guy how the pipes are routed? Please help!! Thanks in advance
Author:  CruzinFNC [ Thu Dec 22, 2016 12:20 pm ]
Post subject: 
After talking to Dutra and Kidd I went back down to the shop to look at the issues, and yeah it's tight but doable. It's a father son outfit and apparently the son was freaking out a bit, so dad had taken over. With more experience and a cooler head it will get done. I'll post pics of it when done.
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Thu Dec 22, 2016 3:09 pm ]
Post subject: 
It can be done.

Not exactly the same as your setup... but here are 2 ideas...
https://youtu.be/khdI5FrWLxU


https://youtu.be/wwb1UyuKISI

Greg
Author:  Exner Geek [ Thu Dec 22, 2016 4:04 pm ]
Post subject: 
Yes it can be done but with some difficulty. Jeff Long did mine but I remember having breakfast and a couple of long walks around town before he was finished. Sorry I don't have pictures now but as I remember the two pipes are stacked on top of each other as they go under the Z bar then joined together a little further down. There is enough room, you just have to take time to figure it out. It might help to study the hyper pak head pipe, there must be pictures of a kit on the site somewhere.
Author:  Dart270 [ Thu Dec 22, 2016 5:06 pm ]
Post subject: 
I just built this system on our LeMons 64 Val racecar, in my garage. Used 2.5" header collectors, a few 2" mandrel bends and pieces of straight pipe, and a Y-pipe just in front of the trans X member joining into a 2.5" single pipe. Miller MIG welder and a metal cutoff saw made it all possible... It might be easier to do with mandrel bends than with exh shop pipe bends so as not to crimp the pipe down too much with tight angles. I'll see if Jason will share his pics with me.

Lou
Author:  kesteb [ Thu Dec 22, 2016 9:47 pm ]
Post subject: 
I did mine with 2 1\8 header pipe from summit. There is enough room to run 2 pipes side by side, in front of the z bar and behiñd the tie rod. This is on a '65 Dart.
Author:  CruzinFNC [ Thu Dec 29, 2016 11:21 am ]
Post subject: 
Thanks guys for the thoughtful responses (Greg, nice Dart)! I knew it could be done and after nearly two days they did finish it. My only major gripe is that they clocked the lower O2 bung into the upper pipe and its nearly unusable for a sensor. Another minor one is they put the collector after the cross member but I think they did that to accommodate my request to make the head pipe removable for better serviceability, it may also help with scavenging performance as well (?). I'm a bit concerned about clearance since the pipes now hang below the frame connectors; the car is low and is now a vulnerable if it should ever get high centered on a curb or rock. I'd post pics but can't find an easy way.

This combo really woke the motor up!! Now that it breaths a new problem arises; the clutch won't hold past 4500 RPM! It's a new 10" (Borg & Beck) installed about 10k miles ago and it doesn't slip during engagement, only when the power band kicks in above that RPM. Is this a known problem or do I have something wrong? Is there a performance clutch option available for the 124 tooth flywheel? Thanks again!
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Thu Dec 29, 2016 12:32 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Now that it breaths a new problem arises; the clutch won't hold past 4500 RPM!

Clutch issues are a known problem. Plus with a stock type clutch you are not going to go much higher RPM due to a possible clutch explosion. There is not really any good direct bolt in clutches for our cars. Do a search and you'll find plenty of complaining about this issue. Sorry for the bad news.

Rick
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Thu Dec 29, 2016 6:23 pm ]
Post subject:  Your choices....
Your choices are fairly limited in clutches... here is a quick run down of what is available over the counter:

Stock 9 1/4" clutch... this one is actually a bit stronger than the 10" clutch and I have done multiple 6000 rpm launches with my first hyperpak conversion.... but it won't last forever, and luckily it has a tendency to wither, fade and slip a lot than explode....

Stock 10" you have works OK, but has exploded on a few people under stress...

McCleod made a limited run of clutches but are no longer available...but they have not let their owners down yet...

Spec Clutch had diaphragm clutches in various stages... I have tried the stage 2+, 3, and 4... each was rated for 250, 300, 350 HP... the 2+ lasted less miles and races than a stock 9 1/4"... the stage 3 lasted about 2 days of racing and stopped engaging correctly... the stage 4 didn't survive my 250 HP fat pak motor...

There are a couple other combinations using a stock pressure plate and a 273 9 1/2" disk... other have run Ford/Fiero parts with new hole machined in the flywheel....

I have installed the stock mid-70's Truck flywheel and Bellhousing in my duster so I can use the big block 11" clutches (if they don't hold nothing will...), I had to make an adapter plate to mount the A-833OD to the truck bell meant for the NP435... the bell is about the size of the big block A-727 bell and fits OK in the 1967-1976 wide A-bodies, I don't think it will fit in the 1960-1966 narrower A's... it also is a heavy chunk of cast iron compared tot he stocker aluminum bell...

At one time the Quicktime bellhousings were available that might allow for use of the other combinations....

Another possibility is to use a 318/340/360 bellhousing, flywheel, and hardware, and use one of the not so common 60's Dodge Truck slant-6 to LA V-8 bellhousing adaptors...

There are other companies that have diaphragm clutches for the stock slant flywheel.. I have noted that they all look to be the same make and similar stock numbering system as the SPEC clutch kits...


As much as it is a pain... there isn't as much fun as rowing through the gears in the countryside on a sunny day....

You may also keep tabs on the conversions for the Tremec 5 speed transmissions and the posts on the 6 speed conversion in the transmission section.

Cheers... and good luck...
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