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My contribution to the Slixer's Gallery
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=60694		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Joe Freeman [ Sun Jan 22, 2017 10:23 am ]
Post subject:  My contribution to the Slixer's Gallery
Hi all, I'm Joseph Freeman from Monroe, nc. Over the past year or more I've read tons of threads on here about turbo builds, fuel injection, etc. And I've learned the most from watching people's progress and observing their methods and decisions. Finally I am in the position to contribute and start my own turbo slant build.
Author:  Joe Freeman [ Sun Jan 22, 2017 10:36 am ]
Post subject: 
This is my 1972 Plymouth Valiant my dad helped me buy over a year ago. I have done some odds and ins to fix it up and get it reliable. Such as alternator, belts, carb rebuilt, ball joints, tie rods, all fluids flushed, radiator the list goes on.
[img][img]http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p400/joefreeman9698/v_zpsvy6thrb1.jpg[/img][/img]

[img][img]http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p400/joefreeman9698/IMG_4380_zpscmy9xiwq.jpg[/img][/img]
Author:  Joe Freeman [ Sun Jan 22, 2017 11:03 am ]
Post subject: 
This time last year I sold some things to gather money for a fresh mildly built motor. Fortunately the man I bought the car from (Leighton) is also a slant six guru like many of yall on this forum. He sold me a super six engine to be rebuilt for this car. Leighton helped me tear the super six engine down and taught me how to do mild head work with a good ole dremel tool and a carbide bit. He further educated me about how the valve train works, which would help me decide what cam and torque converter to go with for according to what the application was going to be which was a spirited daily driver.
The super six motor was what we figured earlier than 1968 which should have the factory forged crankshaft. I sent the assembly off to a local engine builder to bore it .060 over and shaved the head to bump the compression up to ~9.5:1 they used a Erson TQ30M camshaft. While the engine builder had the engine they accidentally dropped the block off the engine stand which broke the block. I sent them the engine that came out of the car which was the later reinforced block that most people identify by the 5 "freeze plugs" in the side.
The engine builder finally finished it up and we took it home. I am now thankful they had an accident with the block because in the end I should apparently have a stronger engine by using the later block and earlier crank. I topped off the engine with a Holley 350 cfm two barrel carburetor. To go along with the fresh engine I acquired a magnetic pickup distributor and bought a GM HEI module from napa to update the ignition system.
[img][img]http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p400/joefreeman9698/FullSizeRender_zpspidkg5xx.jpg[/img][/img]
Author:  Dart270 [ Sun Jan 22, 2017 11:24 am ]
Post subject: 
Hi Joe,

Very nice car. I believe I have ridden in that car before! Leighton, Judy, and Tom are great friends of mine from the Slant 6 community. You are fortunate to be close to their family and benefit from their knowledge and generosity.

Please say hi to Leighton (and all) next time you see him!

Warm wishes,

Lou
Author:  Joe Freeman [ Sun Jan 22, 2017 1:34 pm ]
Post subject: 
For sure! They are a wonderful family and I have learned so much from Leighton and Judy, everything from engines to metal detecting and ham radios etc. they are very interesting to sit and talk to! He has a 34 dodge coupe with a turbo slant were trying to find a dyno tuner that is familiar with electromotive so we can safely get it on the road. He usually writes his own tunes at the strip by making passes but that takes a lot of time for fine tuning, and this is just a street car.
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Sun Jan 22, 2017 4:16 pm ]
Post subject:  Nice!
Looks like a great car, a good build and nice to have some local help.

Do you know what they degreed the cam centerline to? (how much advance?)

Was there a reason it needed to be bored to 60 over? Did you have larger valves installed?

When the machine shop completed the new engine, did they use the crank in it for the build or the crank from the previous block?

Just curious.
Quote:
this is just a street car.
It is more than just a street car... and you can take it to the strip... I've seen stockers take down the performance guys just because they have to wait so long since you get the head start.
Author:  Joe Freeman [ Mon Jan 23, 2017 2:57 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thanks Duster, the cam has 4° advance ground in, I don't know what the builder degreed it to.

Stock valves were used, the early super six forged crank was used in the '72 block that came out of the car. The block was bored 60 over for the gain of displacement.
Author:  Joe Freeman [ Mon Jan 23, 2017 3:15 pm ]
Post subject: 
Also, the other night I ordered an assembled Megasquirt 2, 10ft wiring harness, and the HEI mod.

After taking the hit to my wallet I told myself to wait a few more weeks before making anymore big purchases. Sure enough a decent deal came up on craigslist and i had to take it, I picked up a Garret turbo and intercooler from a '87 Buick Grand National the man I bought it from (Mike McCoy) was a real straight up guy and loved racing. He collects turbo Buicks and sells used parts.

After I took the turbo home I took the compressor housing off to have a look to make sure it was in good shape, well it was loose as a goose and had cut up the inside of the compressor housing. I texted Mike that night with pictures letting him know what I found and he is pulling one off of a car with 70k miles and swapping with mine sometime next week. From what I have read on other peoples builds, the HX35 turbo or the Buick turbo were very efficient on a mild slant six.
[url][URL=http://s345.photobucket.com/user/joefreeman9698/media/IMG_7151_zpsooj4prjv.jpg.html]Image[/url][/url]
Author:  Joe Freeman [ Thu Feb 02, 2017 9:03 pm ]
Post subject:  Megasquirt settings.
Hello all, the megasquirt 2 ecu and harness etc came about a week ago. I am hoping to setup at least my ignition settings so I can have just ignition up and running with a carburetor. I'm using a locked out vr distributor and 7 pin hei module.

For my spark mode should set as "basic trigger" seeing how it's not a toothed wheel like what you would use for Ford edis?

Thanks!
Author:  Joe Freeman [ Fri Feb 03, 2017 9:12 pm ]
Post subject: 
Today I setup my ignition on the bench and tested it along with tps, intake air temp, coolant temp, and manifold air pressure. It seemed to work very well. I used a old Volkswagen distributor with no advance mechanism as the test subject because there is room to clamp it in a battery drill below the gear. It all seemed to work very well, I'm ready to get it into the car and start tuning away!
Author:  coconuteater64 [ Mon Feb 06, 2017 6:48 am ]
Post subject: 
I can't wait to see what you do with this car!
Author:  Joe Freeman [ Sun Feb 12, 2017 8:47 am ]
Post subject: 
Update: I got all the kinks worked out with my ignition and started playing with ignition and trying to improve start and idle quality when I noticed the computer was telling me my firmware didn't match the tune so I flashed it and was too ignorant to realize there's two places to bootstrap for a reflash and that took me a couple days to figure out. She's back on the road and I've got it starting alright and am noticing that it does not like having much timing advance at all at wot acceleration. It started busting up so I bumped the range down about 4 degrees and now I can barely hear it pinging. I'm at 9 degrees 3000+ give or take at 100-95kpa. The concepts ive always learned is usually it's a exponential curve up to about 20-30 degrees or more depending on the engine etc. From the values that seem to feel best on the seat of the pants and throttle response are 12 degrees at park at idle and 8-10 under part throttle in drive. My trigger wizard values seem to be in the ball park as I'm running the stock damper and timing indicator.
Author:  DadTruck [ Fri Feb 17, 2017 4:47 pm ]
Post subject: 
Great Stuff,, nice car !
Author:  Joe Freeman [ Fri Feb 17, 2017 6:10 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thanks!
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