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Choosing a machine shop https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=60705 |
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Author: | B Body Bill [ Thu Jan 26, 2017 7:45 am ] |
Post subject: | Choosing a machine shop |
I'm located in Farmingdale, NY on Long Island. Does anyone know of a competent AND experienced machine shop on or close to me. I want to send my head out but not sure exactly who to ask. It would be nice to have someone do my work who's done a performance slant six head. I also don't mind a little traveling if there's a someone in the NY try-state area. |
Author: | B Body Bill [ Thu Jan 26, 2017 3:16 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
I had a good conversation with a machinist from a shop on Long Island today. He seemed Very knowledgeable and enthusiastic. Prices seemed reasonable and he was very approachable and willing to explain to me what he's doing and why. He also has a flow bench and isn't afraid to use it. I asked about him milling and cc'ing the head and responded surely with knowledge of the mathematicsame needed to get to a true CR. He talked about doing a 4 angle valve job and opening up the bowl area as well as oversized valves and lots of port work. He ballparked the head work (not including the port work) at 500 including installing my valves, double valve springs, locks, 4 angle valve job and milling the head. He then said port work could be mild at 150 to 200 to all out race treatment for 1000. 400 to 600 seems to be a reasonable budgetc for this. He and I seemed to feel 1000 budget, for all the aforementioned work, wasn't out of the realm but he wanted to see the head before quoting and actual numbers. He seemed interested in the work and the project |
Author: | Dart270 [ Fri Jan 27, 2017 3:04 am ] |
Post subject: | |
That is a very reasonable price for that area of the country. Have you gotten references about him from others? You have to be careful to check (or have a knowledgeable friend check) some of his work as many machine shops will tell you they have done something and have not (or only partially). For instance, measure the head thickness with a caliper, then have it milled, then measure again to see how much was milled. Also, ask to look at the 4 angle VJ and port work when he is in the middle of it (look at old port and freshly done one). Independent references are another way to acoomplish this. Sounds promising! Lou |
Author: | B Body Bill [ Fri Jan 27, 2017 7:27 am ] |
Post subject: | |
He came highly recommended from one of the shops I use. I'm going to make friends with him and ask to learn about what he's doing. I have no desire to do this on my own without a shop and the proper equipment but I do want to understand the process and I told him that. He was ok with it. He sounded more like an enthusiast than someone trying to make a sale. Now all I need to do is figure out and understand my cam. I want to see what Dennis used as cam specs and compare that to your recommendation. The machinist also wanted to know about cam specs as well as trans and gearing I was running to better understand what I wanted from him. He also suggested port matching the manifold to the head. What do you guys think about that? |
Author: | Dart270 [ Fri Jan 27, 2017 8:02 am ] |
Post subject: | |
The biggest gain is from bowl porting. Port matching intake to head is not a large gain, but can give some small gain. For simplicity, make sure the head ports are a bit bigger than the intake ports. Best not to work much on the main throat of the port, just remove casting flash/roughness. Do not touch the floor of the port. Blend the last of the multi angle valve job edge/step into the port. Most Slant heads will not see increases in flow above about 0.500" or 0.550" lift, so I am not a big believer in high lift cams for Slants. Dennis' cam should work well, and is a step more wild than the ones I recommended. Lou |
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