Some of you "old-timers" will remember when Johnny Cash had a song out about this guy who took various automobile parts from his job home with him over a long period of time. He eventually ended up with a '55, '56, '57..... automobile. Sometimes I feel like that guy. Parts from this car... parts from that car, will it still be a Dart Sport when I'm done replacing everything with pieces from Dusters, Volares, and Swingers.

I just had a rude awakening at the parts store. I had the clerk just run out a list of parts and prices for me to get an idea about what it will cost to rebuild the front end. Bottom line is about $540 for the list of parts as long as my arm. I had no idea it would take all that.

Now I need some help from you guys. I have already removed everything under the '74 Sport's front end. Tomorrow, Aaron and I will go retrieve our newly found '74 Duster donor. Where can we save on the cost of rebuilding the Duster front end? What can we look at to keep, what MUST be replaced with new? I'll post a list of the parts he quoted when I get home from work. Some of the $540 includes drums, rotors, and cylinders for the rear. We'll have to check them out after we get the car home.

Jerry

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There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

Check the mail-order suppliers on complete front end rebuild kits, last time I looked they were about $200
http://www.p-s-t.com/
DD

Brakes are something I consider a separate area, but I'd use rebuilt or new parts if there's any question of their condition. Bushings are usually shot. Ball joints and tie rods often are too - there are some C-body tie rods you can use that are superior to A-body parts but I'm not sure what year to ask for. You may wish to replace the Pitman arm and idler arm too. Spindles, control arms, and the center link generally don't wear out.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

I don't know about PST, but I rebuilt my front end with parts from one of these inexpensive front end suppliers (Just Suspension) about 40K miles ago. In my opinion the stuff is junk. The rubber grease seals on all four ball joints are either completely split open or severely cracked. Even though it was about eight years ago I think they should have lasted much longer. This may be a case of getting what you pay for!
Bob D

Thanks for the replies.
Bob D, I was wondering about places like Just Suspensions or Kanters. Good to hear your first-hand opinion. On your rebuild, did you go with rubber or poly?

Jerry

_________________
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

Jerry,
I went with poly and I do like it. When I recently replaced the strut rod the poly bushings were like new. One problem, at least with the bushings from Just Suspension, is that the bushings on the strut rod are so thick that the hole for the roll pin at the front end of the rod is no longer exposed. I had to use a jam nut.
If you go with the poly be careful when installing the strut rod into the K-frame. The bushing slides easily on the strut rod and as you’re maneuvering it into position it is easy for the inner bushing to slide off and fall into the K-frame. This happened to me and it took almost two hours to get it out! In fact I think I was lucky to get it out at all! To prevent this tie some fairly thick twine through the roll pin hole after the inner bushing is on the rod. Or, temporarily insert a cotter pin. This will prevent the bushing from coming off during assembly until the back of the strut rod is attached to the lower control arm.
Bob D

One thing that I have heard about the "cheap" kits is that the cam bolts have a tendency to strip threads when you tighten them. Best steel you can get from China, they are.

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Mike C
http://cuda.iclownz.com
67 - Barracuda Coupe - 225 - Automatic