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So F-body guys....
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=60958		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Sat Apr 01, 2017 8:08 pm ]
Post subject:  So F-body guys....
I've looked over the procedure for redoing the front end on my new Aspen... some of the items are easy and similar to the A-body procedure... after looking at the Service Manual and look under the car... would it just be easier to suspend the engine off a length of box iron from the fenders and pull the K-member and suspension wholesale to recondition? (unlike the older Mopar models where the T-bars prevent this from being an easy task...)

Just curious, since these are parts I never pull at Junkyards (not much interchange with A-bodies...).

Thanks!
Author:  sandy in BC [ Sat Apr 01, 2017 8:14 pm ]
Post subject: 
How rusty are the bolts holding the K on?

......cuz if they rip out....
Author:  Reed [ Sat Apr 01, 2017 9:43 pm ]
Post subject: 
Sandy has it right- if the four k-frame bolts are not rusty, I say drop the whole k frame. Disassemble, clean, snd reinforce the pitman arm mount! My brother once pulled a u-turn driving my old 76 Volare and ran the front passenger tire into a curb. The force bent the pitman arm mount and I had to replace the whole k frame. Torsion bars are the same for wagons and sedans, the rear cop car bar caused bad oversteer. The wagons got stiffer rear spings. Watch out for disintegrating plastic dadh pieces (I would swap the whole dash to an m body [le baron or diplomat]).

Pretty much everything interchanges with m bodies, so you can add power windows, power trunk lock, fine corinthian leather interior, plush carpeting, etc from Diplomats, Le Barons, and 5th aves. The factory radios through mid 90s are plug and play as well.

I have a set of the factory 15x7 aluminum rims, if you are interested.
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Sun Apr 02, 2017 12:04 am ]
Post subject:  No problem...
The bolts are suspect, but I think pulling the old drill and penetrating oil trick might help that (and a lot of patience...)...

Reed already mentioned my Prime worry... making sure the steering mounts aren't cracked (even seen that on late A Body K's)... and the car still sports it's 39 year old Iso-bushings on both ends, which definitely have to go.... as much as the small car with the big land yacht feel can be appealing, I'd like the car to react better... (I know the torsion bar bushings are also tanked...)

Junkyards have definitely moved on, not many FMJ bodies left in the yards... if it were 20 years back, I would have had a pick of 2 cop car rear ends from my buddies cars (1981 Dip and a 1983 Gran Fury), that 3.21 sure grip would have been nice to replace the 2.76 9 bolt rear....

Guess I have time to see if the K will free up, and make a grocery list....
and it has an 8 track player... and I know I have a vintage cassette adapter for that turkey somewhere in my stash....

:roll:

Thanks for the feedback, very much appreciated!
Author:  Reed [ Sun Apr 02, 2017 9:48 am ]
Post subject: 
https://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/pts/6063449315.html

https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/6051295538.html

https://eugene.craigslist.org/pts/6070298117.html

https://eugene.craigslist.org/pts/6070512165.html

https://boise.craigslist.org/pts/6060737494.html

https://boise.craigslist.org/pts/6051989061.html

And another great resource for F/M/J bodies: http://www.dippy.org

A B body 8 3/4 is a direct bolt in to the F body chassis. I did it on the 86 Fifth Avenue I used to own.

Good luck and have fun!
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Sun Apr 02, 2017 10:37 am ]
Post subject: 
I have done this on my daily driver 79 duster back in 2004 or 5.

I would say its pretty easy to do with everything bolted up.

Fyi you cannot drop the k frame without taking the upper ball joint stud from the control arm anyway. You would need to do this step before unbolting the upper control arm from the k frame.

The upper control arm needs to be removed from the k frame for this project. It will not come out otherwise.

Also i would recommend to replace the k frame iso bushes with the solid kit. They come in aluminum and polyuerthane.

I have the poly on my car and its good.

Greg
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Sun Apr 02, 2017 10:49 am ]
Post subject:  Good deal...
Quote:
The upper control arm needs to be removed from the k frame for this project. It will not come out otherwise.

Also i would recommend to replace the k frame iso bushes with the solid kit. They come in aluminum and polyuerthane.

I have the poly on my car and its good.
Yeah the arms are coming off anyway to replace the bushings in them, so thanks for the tip.

I know Firm Feel has the solid bushings, I would be interested to know who has the Poly bushings if they cut the price in half, I would have no problem with that... I am looking at Polybushings for the Torsion bar bushing replacements since he's fairly local and that's an easy long term swap, but I didn't see a replacement set for the K-member...

Much appreciated!

:)

Edit: looks like ESPO has them, but have to wait for east coast business hours....

Thanks for the links Reed... I saw the subframe ad... that was tempting... the manual tranny parts were also tempting considering I have a rebuilt 1978 Volare A-833OD sitting in the corner waiting for a car to be put into...
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