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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 5:40 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Mon Nov 30, 2015 6:38 pm
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Location: Lancaster PA
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Hi i have a 1969 dart and i am getting the exhaust done. I want something loud and super aggressive. My dart is all but stock with a 2bbl holley and a few minor things. I was going to go the traditional super 6 route and get 2 1/4 in pipe the whole way back from the manifold. I was going to get a flowmaster super 10. I realize they are extremely loud. has anyone tried this. ive seen videos of other inline 6s with them and they sound pretty good but never heard one on a slant.
Thanks

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1969 dart 2 door 2bbl 225


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 6:17 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
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when my sons got the 83 D150 (factory 2 bbl carb) from dad they put a flowmaster 430402 on it, with the stock motor it was pretty docile,

after I did the cam and other engine changes that same 430402 was really loud, I swapped to a flowmaster 50 series and that quieted it down some.


Last edited by DadTruck on Thu Mar 09, 2017 6:19 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 6:17 am 
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Turbo EFI
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I think it's all just personal preference, but all that droning grates on the nerves after a while. I have a single Smithy's glasspack muffler and while it sounds deep and powerful, I couldn't imagine taking a long trip with it like that. A slant six with a loud raspy exhaust sounds like every other loud raspy six cylinder. Same firing impulses per crankshaft revolution.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 8:26 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2017 11:37 am
Posts: 43
Location: Plano, Texas
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I've been ordering exhaust parts from this guy for a while, and I'm currently running a couple of mufflers similar to the Flowmaster 30 Series:

http://performance-curve.com/FB2541.aspx

These are attached to a set of Clifford headers an X-pipe, and dual 2.25" exhaust pipes, which pretty much makes my car sound (and look like) a V8-powered car. If anything, I feel they are a bit too quiet for me, so yes, I kind of wish I went for a Series 10-equivalent, like this:

http://performance-curve.com/25centerce ... r-2-2.aspx

I may change them out at some point later once I get more important things done on the car, like a transmission that has 3rd-gear. :roll:

Anyway, I don't get anything for the referral, I've just been ordering stuff from this guy for the last 6 years. I have his cats and mufflers on everything from a 1994 Acura NSX (center-exit 3" cats and mufflers split, now THAT is a LOUD car!.. could be toned-down a bit, as most people hear me coming from a mile away), 2005 Mercedes CL65 AMG, and now the '72 Duster. The quality is decent (they are straight and coated with a high-temp agent of some sort), and the price is FAR better than any Flowmaster... at the price of these, you could get 2 different sets of mufflers and see which you like the sound of better. :P

_________________
1972 Plymouth Duster:
- 225ci
- Offy 4-Barrel Intake
- Weber 38/38 DGES
- Clifford headers
- Split 2.25" dual exhaust
- Pertronix digital ignition conversion
- Black-out custom digital gauges
- Front disc brake conversion
- Viper Blue


Last edited by Leaning Dusty on Thu Mar 09, 2017 12:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 12:36 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
Posts: 5611
Location: Downeast Maine
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2300 to 2600 rpm produces a nasty drown from a slant.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 12:50 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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Quote:
Hi i have a 1969 dart and i am getting the exhaust done. I want something loud and super aggressive.
I'm sure your neighbors appreciate your thoughtfulness! :lol:

In my experience, loud exhausts are fun for maybe a week, tops. Then they get real old in a real big hurry. Maybe a better overall result to put a mature-adult kind of exhaust system on the car and spend some time thinking about why you feel compelled to call attention to yourself by making unnecessary noise.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 4:58 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Mon Nov 30, 2015 6:38 pm
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Location: Lancaster PA
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Lol yeah your right slantsixdan. But I'm only 17 and I do not know how long this motor will be in my car. I'm planning a total v8 swap at some point and I want to put my current drive train in a dodge truck if I can find the right one. But anyway I can deal with it being loud. lol I have 1 more year til I have to be mature and adult like :wink: I just visited my friend with a 66chevy truck 327 2 1/2 inch duals with the super 10s. They weren't too obnoxious unless he wanted them to be :wink:

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1969 dart 2 door 2bbl 225


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 6:28 pm 
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I have 1 more year til I have to be mature and adult like :wink:
Fair enough. Reminds me of the old joke about the old bull and the young bull, though.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 6:39 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Mon Nov 30, 2015 6:38 pm
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Location: Lancaster PA
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Although I do understand what your saying. But in my defense since my radio is broken all I can listen to is my engine lol

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1969 dart 2 door 2bbl 225


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 Post subject: Lol...
PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 7:43 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
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Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
2300 to 2600 rpm produces a nasty drone from a slant.
Yeah, depending on gearing that's about right... just wait until you do a 4-5K rpm launch and everyone says your car sounds like a fleet of suzuki motorcycles leaving the parking lot....


You can save a lot of money from the flowmasters and just go cherry bomb or generic turbo muffler....


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 Post subject: Re: Lol...
PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 2:55 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2017 11:37 am
Posts: 43
Location: Plano, Texas
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Quote:
Quote:
2300 to 2600 rpm produces a nasty drone from a slant.
Yeah, depending on gearing that's about right... just wait until you do a 4-5K rpm launch and everyone says your car sounds like a fleet of suzuki motorcycles leaving the parking lot....


You can save a lot of money from the flowmasters and just go cherry bomb or generic turbo muffler....
How right you are! :x... if only I knew this earlier.

I finally had a chance to drive my Duster a bit more, and it appears my trany is not shifting right... likely the kickdown cable needs adjusting as per several other threads on this topic.

I can't tell what my RPM was because the shop forgot to calibrate the new tachometer to my 6 (stock gauge was setup for V8 ), but if I had to guess, it was shifting at around 4500-5500 RPM from 1-2 and 2-3 every time. The sound of the engine went from nice V8 rumble to EXACTLY as you said... a bunch of motorcycles that could be heard from a mile away. :shock:

This was on a generic/custom Flowmaster-knock-off Series 30-type muffler from the website I posted above. The mechanic dropped me off in front of my house after I took the car back to the shop and asked him to ride-along for the tach RPM/transmission shift/noise issue, all of which were relatively new to me... as he was driving away from me I saw him take the corner as the rumble faded away into the distance, followed by a very LOUD *WAAAAAAAA* when I guess he got up to the 1-2 shift. He was at least 1/4 mile away and around some buildings, and even being the jackhole that I am with my loud exhausts, I was a bit shocked how loud and "bike-like" it really was. :shock:

It sounded FANTASTIC and beefy up to a certain RPM range, and then it just became embarrassing. :oops:

I'm running Clifford headers (split), 2.25" dual pipes (to confuse people lol), with an x-pipe, and previously-mentioned 30 Series-type mufflers. Is there any way to mellow that out, or am I stuck here? What the F would my car have done with 10-Series mufflers? :?

I only noticed now after having the exhaust on the car for the last 2 years because I did not drive it much (or that hard) and did not have a kickdown cable installed previously... now with one on there, and apparently not adjusted properly, this exhaust is making me doubt my choices.

EDIT: I'm planning to swap my highway-geared 7.25" rear for a 3.73 8.8" Ford, so I will be at higher RPM's a lot more often... I have a feeling I will be "motorcycle mode" a lot more than I would like. :?

_________________
1972 Plymouth Duster:
- 225ci
- Offy 4-Barrel Intake
- Weber 38/38 DGES
- Clifford headers
- Split 2.25" dual exhaust
- Pertronix digital ignition conversion
- Black-out custom digital gauges
- Front disc brake conversion
- Viper Blue


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2017 6:35 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
Posts: 5611
Location: Downeast Maine
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LD:
Quote:
I only noticed now after having the exhaust on the car for the last 2 years because I did not drive it much (or that hard) and did not have a kick-down cable installed previously... now with one on there, and apparently not adjusted properly, this exhaust is making me doubt my choices
Hopefully a throttle pressure cable adjustment will yield proper shift. Where car was driven without this device hooked up chances are you have degraded the clutch pack.

Problem is when engine throttle position and transmission are not reading each other, (kick-down cable disconnected) transmission won't increase internal pressures enough to keep clutch pack from slipping; worse case is burned up clutch pack and perhaps bands.


Exhaust talk here and here is some chatter about HP-2’s I installed as resonators ahead of factory stile Walker mufflers.

You can find more on "mufflers" searching under "wjajr' and "aggressive ted".





Quote:
I can't tell what my RPM was because the shop forgot to calibrate the new tachometer to my 6 (stock gauge was setup for V8 ), but if I had to guess, it was shifting at around 4500-5500 RPM from 1-2 and 2-3 every time.
If you let transmission self shift in "D" it will so at 4000 to 4200 rpm, or lower where throttle pressure cable is not adjusted correctly. Manual up shift could be any where above stock shift point. So open up your tac, and flip the little toggle switch to "6" from "8" and you will be good.


I just made a search for HP-2 can't find it. I recall that HP-2 muffler was purchased by ether Magnaflow or Flowmaster several years ago, and could be found at Summit and Jegs. It may still be produced, but under a different part number I'm not sure. At any rate, some sort of resonator/muffler that cancels out high frequencies placed ahead of muffler will remove most of the objectionable finger nails on chalkboard racket a high revving slant or any inline six produces.


Another path to blissful quietness would be to look up mufflers & configuration a straight six Trailblazer or Jeep utilize. Both of these buggies are very quiet.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2017 8:02 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2017 11:37 am
Posts: 43
Location: Plano, Texas
Car Model:
Thank you for the idea, wjajr!

After reading through your suggested threads and doing a few Google searches, what I'm taking away from this is that I need more muffler further up stream... I just need to make sure I know exactly what RPM my engine is spinning when the noise happens.

I could do something like this to (I think) work similar to those HP-2's: http://performance-curve.com/JR25.aspx or http://performance-curve.com/JFP225.aspx (for even more quiet)... definitely a lot cheaper than the actual FP-2's.

With that said, do you think a couple of 2.5" cats would work as resonators and or provide any benefit to cleaning-up any exhaust fumes the car produces? I actually have a pair of these laying around that I originally wanted to put on the car: http://performance-curve.com/225thunder ... 15225.aspx (They were about half the cost when I bought mine on a promotion.) I have the same type of cats on both the NSX and the 700hp V12 Benz (just in different sizes).

I definitely don't want to make it too quiet, and it already sounds great during regular driving, it's really just the high RPM stuff I want to kill.

Additionally, yeah, the tach I have needs a snip at a wire loop on the back to calibrate it for my 6, but since I paid for somebody to put them in properly, I'm asking them to do it, since they have to pull the cluster again to fix a few other things related to my custom gauges.

With the Lokar cable installed, it seems that the transmission won't shift at all under WOT and definitely shifts at much faster speeds than all the sources suggest it should shift at. I can manually down-shift it just fine, however going from 1-2 and 2-D does not seem possible until a super high RPM. I suppose the first step is just making sure the tach is reading properly, then get the cable adjusted properly (as per directions I found on this website), then drive it to see what the exhaust does at what RPM in normal driving, and then take it to a exhaust shop (with my own mufflers) to see what they can do to cut just the noise that I don't want.

I'll definitely try to find some sound clips online from the other inline sixes you mentioned to see what they are doing and how well it works to eliminate my current issue without killing the awesome exhaust note completely.

_________________
1972 Plymouth Duster:
- 225ci
- Offy 4-Barrel Intake
- Weber 38/38 DGES
- Clifford headers
- Split 2.25" dual exhaust
- Pertronix digital ignition conversion
- Black-out custom digital gauges
- Front disc brake conversion
- Viper Blue


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2017 5:15 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
You really need a tach to determine shift points.........

My stock 904 at WOT does the 1-2 shift at about 4000ish and the 2-3 at a low 3000ish

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 6:58 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2017 11:37 am
Posts: 43
Location: Plano, Texas
Car Model:
Quote:
You really need a tach to determine shift points.........

My stock 904 at WOT does the 1-2 shift at about 4000ish and the 2-3 at a low 3000ish
I agree.

The issue is that while my new digital tach was installed and looked pretty, in V8-mode it showed me capping at 2,800 RPM at WOT, and also about where the transmission would shift if I let off the gas... every time. I have not gone complete WOT for more than a few seconds past "2,800" RPM, because I had a feeling that with the sound the car was making that was not a good reading, the car was not really pulling much past that point anyway, and did not want to risk blowing something up or burning-up the trans. Yeah, it's definitely the kickdown cable needing to be calibrated, and the tach just needs a wire loop snipped in the back to get it right.

Before I start ordering mufflers and installing more stuff I may be able to live without, I will definitely square-away the tach and kickdown issue... I don't want to hurt the nice rumble it's producing now just to eliminate a known issue I may not face very often when the car is functioning properly. I may be able to live with the fleet of Suzuki's if I'm drag racing, just don't want that sound every day during the morning drive to work. :wink:

_________________
1972 Plymouth Duster:
- 225ci
- Offy 4-Barrel Intake
- Weber 38/38 DGES
- Clifford headers
- Split 2.25" dual exhaust
- Pertronix digital ignition conversion
- Black-out custom digital gauges
- Front disc brake conversion
- Viper Blue


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