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| What Trans rebuild kit for a 1978 /6 auto https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=60998 |
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| Author: | keastab [ Wed Apr 12, 2017 7:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | What Trans rebuild kit for a 1978 /6 auto |
I'm just putting back together my engine for my 66 dart and am going to redo the transmission. both engine and trans came out of a 78 and I'd like to get a kit to rebuild the trans since the engine will have been gone completely through. (crank,cam,.030 over new pistons, 0.60 head shave,larger valves ect.) 1. what possible "fixes" of upgrades can I do to the trans to make sure it's dependable and a bit better than stock? 2. Is there any better bands, clutches or drums I should look at to help with the dependability and durability? 3. can I order a kit (and where at) with any upgrades included? thanks |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Wed Apr 12, 2017 8:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Part number |
You'll need to post the part number stamped on the base of the pan rail... so someone can tell if it's a lock up or non-lockup.... Also I noticed that you are only shaving the head .060... are you taking any off the block? .060 minus the head gasket at .039 nets only a .021 cut, which isn't much for a compression increase. |
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| Author: | keastab [ Wed Apr 12, 2017 9:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Part number |
Quote: You'll need to post the part number stamped on the base of the pan rail... so someone can tell if it's a lock up or non-lockup....
Also I noticed that you are only shaving the head .060... are you taking any off the block? .060 minus the head gasket at .039 nets only a .021 cut, which isn't much for a compression increase. ok I'll flip the trans over and check for numbers. I have it stashed/buried under the work bench in a plastic bag right now to stop dirt and fluid leakage (in or out). the torque convertor input shaft looks to be completely splined to the end by the fast look I did right before I stashed it, but it's been a couple years so I could be wrong. I'll be taking off the deck height when I finish mocking up the new pistons to see how deep in the hole they are. I did get the heads CC's out @53 largest CC and 51+ a hair more for the smallest . I was using 100CC syringes,plastic lexan plate with a syringe size hole in it and sealing grease(yeah not quite precision but still pretty close). It was way closer than I'd have thought. I can probably de-shroud/ smooth the pockets a bit on the smaller ones to bring them to 52. then try and figure my static compression. I don't want to hammer the compression since I will be adding a turbo (8-10lb boost) after I get the EFI manifold and MSII working good for me. |
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| Author: | Reed [ Wed Apr 12, 2017 9:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
A transgo shift kit is a good upgrade. The easiest upgrade is to find a v-8 904 from a similar vintage and install the V-8 guts into the slant six case. V-8 transmissions got more clutches and stronger planetary gears. Beyond that upgrades are really unnecessary for a street driven slant. The 904 and 727 transmission is a VERY durable and robust design. |
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| Author: | 72polara [ Thu Apr 13, 2017 8:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I had a really good experience with one of the TransGo kits on a marginal /6 904. It tightened up the shifts, and generally made it more fun; I added a slightly higher stall converter at the same time I did the TransGo. I remember it being pretty straight forward - use provided drill bits to enlarge some holes in the valve body, exchange some springs and check balls. I got another couple of years out of the transmission before I melted a piston in that engine and swapped to a T5. Would definitely do it again. My build and usage at the time wasn't serious enough (IMHO) to warrant swapping V8 parts into the /6 case. |
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| Author: | keastab [ Sat Apr 15, 2017 4:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
here are the numbers on the trans PK 515871 3989 8998 so what is the ID on this trans? 78 non lockup? and I just ordered the TF-1 transgo kit for the 904. (if it doesn't work in this trans I have n original 66 trans that it should work in after I get a converter ring for the crank) |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Sat May 13, 2017 9:20 am ] |
| Post subject: | ??? |
Quote: PK 515871 3989 8998
What side of the transmission was that on?The Factory Part number is on the pan rail below the selector shaft. (I just redid mine last night and its 4028812 5920 9662... 4028812 is a lock up for 1 or 2 barrel 225's in 1978... that was confirmed by the convertor having a lockup sticker still on it, and the upper and lower valve body castings being connected with an aluminum S tube. |
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| Author: | Reed [ Sat May 13, 2017 9:31 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: here are the numbers on the trans
Double check your numbers. The number you want is stamped on the driver's side of the transmission on the flange the pan bolts to at the front under the kickdown lever. It may take some scrubbing to see it clearly. nce you have verified the numbers, look them up here: http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/transguide.pdf
PK 515871 3989 8998 |
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