Most of the ebrake cables are missing and trashed on the 1973 Duster. Does anyone have a diagram or digital photo of how to route them? I purchased new cables for each rear wheel, one for the handle and one called an intermediate cable. However, it seems like there should be one more so it can pull evenly on both wheels. My shop manual shows routings for almost every year and model but mine. Thanks.

Mike

I just got done cursing the clutch swap on my 74 duster (I like the quick throw of the A-230 floor shifter, but I hate the bellhousing and three speed shift mechanism...I'll stick to 4 speeds from here on out...)...

Anyhow I have some pics for you, since I remembered you needed them so...

On the passenger side cross support you should have this adjustable "Idler" hook, leave loose until everything is in place :





On the driver's side hook the 'triangle' to the e-brake cable then hook your main loop through the 'triangle'




Before totally getting involved with those parts, you may want to look at your routing, the picture is darker (getting evening now...), Depending on the year and exhaust configuration: The cable generally goes over the top of the exhaust pipe,and under the tranny tailshaft...on some A-bodies there will be an "s" loop (kinda like an unfolded paperclip) that hold the e-brake cable away from the slip yoke and attaches to the crossmember or a spot on the tranny (this is to keep it from getting caught up in your U-joint or scoring up the yoke should the cable fail and "droop"/get pulled to the back...). My three dusters lost theirs or never had them, so I just route the line over the exhaust (on cat convertor models, under on supported pre-cat models), and under the tranny tail....





Last thing to hook up is the driver and passenger side wheel cabling, this is the "easiest" part...same on both sides:







Now once it all looks okeee-dokee and kinda hangin' loose there go back to here:








Squirt some oil on it, or some anti-seize and go to town with a deep socket.... (I like to use my 18volt cordless drill with a chuck and a deep socket). Drive it to about 3/4 the depth of your deep socket. Apply the e-brake, if a lot of lever/pedal comes out easily release, go back and adjust down another 1" of threads....

Note: some people will apply e-brake to desired depth and then wind the nutdown to adjust the brake this works, but I have stripped the threads on the idler hook doing it...

good luck mike! sounds like your project is coming long, I can tell you cussing at it regularly does help...


-D.Idiot

Great help. I got it together now. I had to make my own coupler to tie a rear cable to the intermediate since one was missing. I used a galvanized pipe, cut in the hole and a slot and it works. Also had to make my own threaded hook. The old one was too short since the previous owner drove around with it dragging on the street. I used a mid grade threaded rod, heated it and bent it. I will go to the bolt shop next week and get a hardened J bolt and replace it just to make sure it is sturdy enough..

I still can't get fluid to the rear brakes and I cannot remove the rear line at the proportioning valve. Can't figure out what to do now.

Thanks again.

Mike