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| Won't start while cranking https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=61014 |
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| Author: | darksheep85 [ Sat Apr 15, 2017 1:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Won't start while cranking |
Let me preface this by saying it's not a slant six. It's a 1978 New Yorker with a 400. It has had the lean burn replaced with electronic ignition. New distributor, new ECU, new ballast, good coil. The problem goes like this.... The car started a week ago and ran for about 10 minutes and then shut off like someone turned the key off. I checked the ballast and it has 1.5 ohms across it. I changed the ECU and tried it again. It turned and turned and turned with no spark, but when I let off the key, it fired up. Now it still only ran a short while before shutting off. I started checking wires under the hood. No bad fuse links, no melted wires, no bad connections to my eyes. Coil is not getting hot. With key on and car not running I have 4.8v on coil+ and 1.3v on coil-. The last time I got it had it running for a while I checked the coil while running and it had 10.5v on + and 4v on -. And the readings on the ballast are the same as the coil running and not running, respectively. I did notice, however, while cranking it, after I give up and turn the key off, the engine will *puh* like one cylinder gets one spark and and that's it. And it will do this as long as I keep rotating the key from run, back to off, for maybe 3 times. And it will *puh* every time the key gets turned OFF. I tried it again today after sitting for a week and it fired right up like it ought to. Ran for maybe 5 minutes, then shut off again like the key was turned off. Didn't sputter, skip, stuggle to run, or anything. I've looked all over the place for help and keep seeing the same things over and over again. 1. Replace all electronic components under the hood 2. Bad wire or connection somewhere (good luck) 3. Bulkhead connection. (I don't have a bulkhead, wire is solid through the firewall and passes through a grommet.) 4. J3 wire (good luck) 5. Ignition switch 6. Starter relay 7. Get rid of the whole thing and put in a HEI. I would prefer to not have to put HEI in right now because I'm trying to sell the car, and I don't wanna explain why I did it. "Yeah, I cobbled together an ignition system out of Chevy parts. Still wanna buy the car?" I don't know where the ignition switch is because I have a TILT/TELESCOPING steering wheel. I've seen pics of the part that looks like it goes in next to the key tumbler, and another type that looks green and I'm assuming goes under the dash. And if I have to take that steering column apart again, I might shoot myself. (Had to put new key cylinder in, but can't remember if I saw an ignition switch.) Can somebody with vastly more knowledge PLEASE assist me? |
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| Author: | Badvert65 [ Mon Nov 20, 2017 5:35 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Won't start while cranking |
Most tilt columns have the ignition switch on the top of the column under the dash. It is mounted with two screws and the switch bracket itself has slots for the screws. It sounds likely that the switch needs adjusting. I am uncertain of the procedure for a used switch as the new ones usually have a breakaway pin holding them in place to be mounted. What should work, and won't cost anything, would be to loosen the screws and have someone hold the key in the 'start' position (disconnect the battery so it doesn't actually try to start). With the key held in Start, slide the column switch up towards the steering wheel as far as it will go, then tighten it down good. Reconnect the battery and try again. It sounds like the switch adjustment is off or loose and the switch isn't staying completely in the correct Start or Run position. (FYI, during start, the ballast resistor is bypassed in the switch for easier starting). Just a no cost option. I have seen this happen before with tilt columns. -Matt |
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| Author: | Mr.6 [ Sun Dec 03, 2017 12:00 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Won't start while cranking |
Good news is - - it will most likely be one wire . I'd look under the hood to see if any wire's related to starting solenoid or distributor are fried (not spark plug wires) My truck once had a simple wire burned and separated - Same symptom idling and poof then off it would just crank away . But since you can start it for a period of time thats an intermittent problem heck it could go away for 6 months . |
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