Hello I have a 1977 Dodge Aspen 2 Door Coupe 225 3.7 Carter 2 barrel. I noticed the other day ago that my mechanical fuel pump had a hair line crack in it so I replaced it with a new one. After cranking it a few times I noticed the new fuel pump wasn't getting any fuel. So I figured the cam lobe was not hitting the lever on the pump. So I did several things. Removed the fuel pump and reinstalled.

I checked the cam lobe it in fact is not broke it is leaving marks on the fuel pump lever so it shows that the cam lobe is working as it is suppose too. I removed the fuel sending unit and checked the sock it appears to be clear and not stopped up at the fuel tank ( Is a new fuel sending unit as well ) I then removed the inline and return line and checked them for any cracks or blockages and the lines appear non restricted all the way from the fuel tank to the fuel pump.

It would appear gas is making it to the fuel pump because when I pull the inline off the fuel pump after cranking the engine over a few times gas is coming from the inline. It would appear gas is not making it from the fuel pump to the line to the fuel filter and to the carb from the fuel pump itself. I have learned just because the fuel filter doesn't always show gas in it doesn't always mean gas isn't in the filter. So I removed the filter the filter it is clear. Can blow threw it with compressed air and it is not upside down. Also blew both lines in the front and the canister lines they are all clear as well.

When manually trying to give the carb gas I have noticed that there is no gas stream at all filling the carb. Just to verify before I remove the carb to rebuild it or to replace it I wanted to see what any one else thought or any feed back that others may have in regards to this issue. Of course I can put starting fluid in the carb and it will run for a few seconds then the engine will shut off. I even tried tapping on the top of the carb still no gas is making it inside the carb. Thank You

So the engine was running before you replaced the fuel pump?

Yes was running perfectly before hand.

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1977 Dodge Aspen 2 Door Coupe 225 3.7

If you're sure the cam lobe is properly contacting the arm on the new pump, then the next thing I'd do is check to see if it's moving fuel.

Run the fuel line from the pump outlet into a plastic bottle, pull the coil wire to ensure the engine doesn't start, and then have an assistant crank the starter while you watch the bottle. If gas goes into the bottle, you know the pump is working and the problem lies somewhere else. If it doesn't move any gas into the bottle, it might just be a junk fuel pump from the factory. Not common, but not unheard of.

Regardless of the results of the above test, I'd also recommend pulling your oil dipstick and seeing it smells like gas. A leaky or broken fuel pump can leak gas into the crankcase. If you smell any gas whatsoever in the oil, do an oil change before driving the car again.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

Verify that the pump arm is going on the proper side of the cam. I only suggest this because I have installed the fuel pump and put the pump arm on the wrong side of the cam a few times.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

The fuel pump is working. I am now getting fuel to the fuel filter and to the carb now. I also pulled back the throttle and choke cable and I can see two streams of gas filling the carb. I tried to adjust the idle screw and fast idle and it ran for awhile then shut off. The carb is getting gas now just need some help tweaking it so it will stay running at idle.

Fuel and air is obviously out of wack also the idle screw. Not sure what happen there because the issue I had previously was a fuel pump with a hair line crack in it and now the carb needs adjustments. It is always something so it seems. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thank You

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1977 Dodge Aspen 2 Door Coupe 225 3.7

Vehicle wont stay running with choke closed when it is cold. Fuel filter and both jets in carb both getting a nice stream of fuel in the carb. I have a manual cable for the choke inside the vehicle. It would appear that the curb or idle screw are not working as they are suppose too. Doesn't seem to matter which step I set the idle screw on the vehicle wont stay running.

If I put the choke half way the vehicle and carb will both start but shuts off within a few minutes before I can try to induce the rpm. Any help with this would be much appreciated before it drives me completely insane. I have also noticed that the choke vacuum is working when starting the vehicle. Thank You

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1977 Dodge Aspen 2 Door Coupe 225 3.7

The engine was running before... ok, thats a starting point

The pump sent no gas before, now is sending gas. Good.

The car cannot run but for few minutes in idle.

a) Did you sent any dirt upstream while changing the pump? Check/ replace line to carb and carburetor gas bowl valve (were the gas gets into the carb).

b) is the float working properly? Check gas level in gas bowl. Check the service manual. I know how to do it in a 1920 Holley, but you might/should have a different carb (Update: I just saw, 2BBL Carter, yes it is different)

c) Did you changed anything on the carb during this process? Check lines, cracked vacuum tubes (vacuum leaks)

d) Is your car original? What carb does it have (supersix? 1945?). Maybe pictures of the carb with the air filter removed can help people to visualize problem. I was also thinking telling you to check inside the carburetor gas bowl, but in some carbs is harder than others. (OOPS, you have a 2BBL Carter in your car. Still, is everything connected the right way?)


e) PCV valve connected and working? Plug the valve intake and check again.

It runs for few minutes and dies... an air leak getting worse as it warms up?

My two cents... good luck.

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...there's nothing like using the "Search" link above to solve most of your problems...

Nothing in fuel lines. Also checked the plugs and they look good. And oil doesn't smell like fuel either. It is almost like the float is not working properly. Yeah even with the choke open at 1/4'' the engine will start but wont stay idling. Doesn't matter where the idle screw is set on the cam stepper still wont idle. Can get it to run maybe 2 minutes and then it will shut down. I checked for vacuum leaks I see none. When it does run for those few minutes pretty obvious it is running rich half to open the garage doors or get high as a kite in there.

This vehicle has always started fairly easy even with a manual choke so not sure what the issue is. I have no gauges so cant really test air and fuel mixture anything. Am thinking of pulling the carb off but question if I should just because of it refusing to idle. Also I have not changed the timing because as stated has always ran pretty good. Doesn't seem like anything major but then again hell if it wont idle it wont run either. Thank You


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1977 Dodge Aspen 2 Door Coupe 225 3.7

Boy oh boy what a mess I have on my hands. The pocket where the the built-in pocket for the choke spring coil goes is missing not only that who ever had it before me broke the bolts off in the manifold pocket and of course the choke spring is missing I guess that is why they had a manual cable rigged up for the choke.that finally failed. Guess I will half to figure something out. Thank You

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1977 Dodge Aspen 2 Door Coupe 225 3.7

I had a similar problem , engine would run poorly 1 minute then stop.
Eventually would not start.

Found out carb Holly 1945 was supplying too much gas.
Do this "fuel on spark plug" test quickly after engine quits.
I checked this by removing spark plug and looking how much gas was on plug, it was soaked drenched. This was at outside temp around 80 degree.
At your place it maybe 40 degrees? so the fuel reading on plug might
be different from warmer place. But if your engine was running for
4 minutes ?, then the plugs should be at least 90 degrees temp
and you could use my result (plugs drenched fuel) to figure if
your carb is too rich fuel.