Just a quick one, the flywheel bolts straight onto the engine correct? There isn't any sort of sleeve/spacer between it and the engine? This is the 122 tooth 9.5 inch flywheel.

Paul

The bellhousing bolts to the engine, the flywheel bolts to the crank. You need to get a factory manual so you can torque the bolts properly, hopefully
you got the flywheel to crank bolts with the flywheel...they aren't the same as the flexplate to crank bolts...Given the engine age, I would buy a 1978
Factory Service Manual it will cover your transmission and engine choice.

If you are asking that question, I am thinking you might be haveing a problem mounting the flywheel to the crank.
As stated the flywheel bolts directly to the crank. However there are two different size center holes in the flywheel. They need to match the crank. Size of the hole changed between 1967 and 1968. 1967 and earlier had a smaller hole then the 1968 and newer flywheels/crank.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Ok,

I think I am using "engine" and "crank" interchangeably". The holes line up just fine, but I will need some longer bolts. Why do I need the bell housing on the motor to test the engine? I just want to run it for maybe one minute on my stand to ensure there isn't anything catastrophically wrong with it. I need to order a starter and some spark plugs, then should be good to go.

Paul

how do you plan to mount the starter?
if you are going the OE large style starter I bet that I have one around here
that I will send to you for the price of shipping.
if you are going with a mini starter, get one for $15.00 from a local pull a part

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

x2, and how about securing the rear of the engine so it doesn't wobble and tear up your
Fir motor mounts.
ARP 240-2801, use loctite on install...

You will eventually need the clutch cover bolts...ARP 150-2201 when you install your clutch during assembly for installation.
x2 on Junkyard 1992-1996 Dodge Dakota Starter for 5.2L V-8


1978 Cast Crank Engine with peanut plugs, NGK-UR-5 or if going cheap AC Delco R-45TS, gap to .035

Hi guys,

Dadtruck: it looks like the starter is supposed to mount onto the engine with the teeth covered by the bellhousing. I need to get that service manual. That said, I'd be grateful to take you up on your offer unless there is a reason why the other starter would be benificial. How can I send you money for shipping?

Dusteridiot: I'll have you know that's the highest quality structural pine that my compay can get for the cheapest price. But yes, I will take your advice and find some way to strap it down. It was minorly terrifying levering it off the engine hoist with a pipe while trying not to drop the whole thing 4 inches. Next, looks like the NKG plugs are only 2ish dollars. Do more expensive plugs really make a difference? Finally, why should I go with those bolts vs going to ACE hardware? Better temper?

Paul

Merry Christmas all

Please don't take this the wrong way, but I don't want to be party to someone getting themselves or other others seriously injured or killed.
Asking about using hardware bolts to affix a flywheel brings serious doubts to me on your mechanical aptitude.

I will refrain from any further conversations with you.

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Well ok,

Must of been nice to magically know everything when you worked on an engine the first time.

Dusteridiot: so the 1992-1996 Dodge Dakota Starter for 5.2L V-8 will fit the slant 6? There are a number of yards near me and I don't think there will be a major issue finding that part. Finally, would like to clear up that part about the bolts. I would prefer not to injure myself or damage the engine. Ironically, my job is safety focused.

Paul

NGK plugs are fine plugs. No need for "exotics". If this is just a temporary stand than you can use some Grade 8 bolts and washers from the hardware store. But these flywheel bolts are known to come loose, so you will want to get the correct factory bolts or the ARP bolts mentioned above and use locktite on them for a permanent install.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Thanks Rick,

That makes sense, I'll go ahead and order the advised bolts and plugs. Now for the lock tight am I good to go with the lower end blue stuff or do you recommend red or black? I think black is supposed to be for "its never coming off again" level of permanent.

Sincerely,

Paul

I use the red, but I use a lock ring on all my installs, so my bolts cant come loose even if they want too!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Use red loctite. And torque to proper spec.

Be sure to have a way to keep engine crankshaft / flywheel from spinning when torquing those fasteners.

I have never seen bolts on a stock type application come loose.. but in high hp/ rpm racing builds. Yes.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Paul,

Most of us here are of a certain age and experience. I would hazard that most of us know the cursory difference between Grade 2, Grade 5 and Grade 8 bolts. All of those grades of bolt may be found at the corner hardware store. Only one of those grades may be suitable and only if chosen with knowledge and care, the other grades are not suitable. Not that you're likely to find a Grade 2, 7/16-20 bolts, but if you did and they were installed you could quite possibly have the flywheel come off the engine at speed and experience catastrophe. Some of us don't want to be involved no matter how peripherally. The ARP parts given are suitable without question.

Without a foundation (shade tree or otherwise) in mechanics this forum is unlikely to wholeheartedly embrace you and your project. To be more welcomed here there needs to be some self-help evident so that when you come here you ask educated questions rather than overly general ones.

Regards,

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Joshua

Adding to what Joshie225 said, any engine will have many "critical" fasteners that are special for the specific application. The flywheel bolts are a great example. Not only are they very high strength but they have precisely sized base diameter that fits very snug in the flywheel holes. Even a high quality, high strength but 'generic' bolt is not appropriate here. It not only has to hold the flywheel to the crankshaft it also has to locate it precisely enough that it can't shift on the crank or wobble around. A lot of force goes through those little bolts. If the flywheel moves relative to the crank bad things happen quickly.

Similar requirements apply to head bolts, rod bolts, rocker shaft bolts, etc.

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