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| Slant 6 Rebuild - Setting the lash cold https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=61222 |
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| Author: | T2true [ Sat Jun 03, 2017 8:29 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Slant 6 Rebuild - Setting the lash cold |
I am in the process of re-assembling my 225 and am at the point where I need to lash the valves and have two questions: 1. With no crank bolt, how do I turn over the engine to get movement on the valves? 2. How exactly do I set the lash? I know that's a vague, open question, and a total newb one, but I am new at this and still learning. I know I have to get one valve closed to set the lash on the other, but it's still a bit fuzzy to me. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Ted |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Sat Jun 03, 2017 11:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | You could... |
Quote: 1. With no crank bolt, how do I turn over the engine to get movement on the valves?
You install a 3/4" NF bolt to turn the crank... or.. you install the alternator and water pump pulleys and fan belt and turn it like everyone else did back in the good old days....
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Sun Jun 04, 2017 1:08 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
There's 3 5/16 bolt holes on the front of the pulley. Get 3 grade 8 bolts to put in the holes |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sun Jun 04, 2017 1:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
DusterIdiot's answer is the safe one: fetch a ¾"-16 × 2½" bolt with appropriate washer and install it. You might get away with emsvitil's method…or you might break the crank pulley...or distort or puncture the timing cover. Although you're wanting to set the lash cold to get it in the ballpark before starting the engine, reading the valve adjustment procedure (which assumes you're working with the engine hot and running) should give you a clearer idea of how to go about actually adjusting. |
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| Author: | oldnslo [ Sun Jun 04, 2017 4:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
When cold, I set mine .002 wider |
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| Author: | T2true [ Sun Jun 04, 2017 6:51 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I can't find a bolt locally, so I just ordered one on Amazon. (I just have to wait for it to be delivered.) As for setting the lash, I have the lash specs. I am more specifically looking for how to get the valves in position to set the lash for each. For example, I know that I have to start with #1 piston at TDC and adjust the exhaust/intake for that piston. How do I get the #2 piston in position to adjust its valves? (I will have to manually turn over the engine; it's not ready to start.) I know it needs to be TDC, but how do I know when it is? |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Mon Jun 05, 2017 7:08 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I remove all spark plugs, start at #1 and follow firing order while checking for blow out from target cylinder on compression stroke with finger. Engine rolls over easily sans plugs, like someone said; install alternator, fan, and drive belt to use as a means to roll over crank. 0.002" added to lash speck will get it close enough to start and run in cam. |
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| Author: | T2true [ Wed Jun 07, 2017 9:22 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I was able to find a crank bolt at my local Ace Hardware to turn over the engine. Here's how I was able to set the lash on the rockers for my engine build: I had the #1 piston set at TDC (on compression) from before I installed the cylinder head. I set the lash on its intake/exhaust (IE) valves. To set #2, I turned over the engine until its intake started to open, indicating that its exhaust was fully closed. I set its exhaust lash. Then turned over the engine until exhaust started to open, indicating intake was fully closed, and set the intake lash. I continued this process for each valve until all was lashed properly. It was not as easy as it sounds. Because the locking screw was too loose on some push rods, it threw off the open/close of the valve, so that when I lashed them, it was incorrect. I had to redo some of them. It took a while to complete. But, now I know; and, hopefully, it won't take as long on the next engine build. Thanks for all the feedback. |
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| Author: | Reed [ Wed Jun 07, 2017 9:56 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: It took a while to complete.
Glad you got it figured out. However, it goes faster (about six times faster) if you adjust the valves following the firing order. Do cylinder 1 first, then rotate the crank 120 degrees and adjust #5, then rotate crank 120 degrees and adjust # 3, the #6, then #2, then #4. And don't forget the valve order switches after #3: E-I-E-I-E-I-I-E-I-E-I-E
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| Author: | T2true [ Wed Jun 07, 2017 1:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Glad you got it figured out. However, it goes faster (about six times faster) if you adjust the valves following the firing order.
I'm sure you're right. This is my first engine build and I didn't know. Now I do. Although, just before I started, I saw a post that showed the valve order which helped a lot. Thanks.
... And don't forget the valve order switches after #3: E-I-E-I-E-I-I-E-I-E-I-E |
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| Author: | Reed [ Wed Jun 07, 2017 1:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
No problem. I was pretty stressed the first few times I adjust the lash, too. Now whenever I pull a head and have to reset the lash I just turn the adjusters really loose and fire it up. I adjust the valves once the motor is up and running. |
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| Author: | Will [ Wed Jun 07, 2017 4:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Ted, finish filling your profile. There could be someone right down the street that could help you. You never know. Will |
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