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Thicker copper head gasket to drop CR https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=61266 |
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Author: | Bare Metal Maz [ Fri Jun 16, 2017 10:37 pm ] |
Post subject: | Thicker copper head gasket to drop CR |
SL6 Forum, Going through some old EFI builds on the site, I noticed copper head gaskets being utilised at times. Is running a thicker copper head gasket of say 0.08" compared to say a felpro head gasket of 0.04" going to be an issue on a daily driver? I ask as it's possibly an option I can use to lower my CR fro 9.9 to around 9.3. This would get the CR in line with Comp 264s cam I currently have running and certainly eliminate some pinging issues i have under certain conditions. I will ultimately go to a 270/280 cam, Aussiespeed long runner intake and Holley 4 barrel, but this may be an interim step I could take in the mean time. Any idea on what a custom copper gasket as described would cost? (Note I live in Australia.) I'm interested in the groups thoughts. |
Author: | Joshie225 [ Fri Jun 16, 2017 11:08 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Sealing copper head gaskets is a royal pain. Most people go copper because they are running a lot of cylinder pressure and there isn't anything else which will hold up. If higher octane fuel is available it's much cheaper and easier to buy that unless you will do a tremendous amount of driving before the cam change. The last time I bought a copper /6 head gasket it was 2008 and it cost near $100. |
Author: | sandy in BC [ Sat Jun 17, 2017 6:21 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Id ditch that Comp 264 and go to the 280/270 to lower your DCR. |
Author: | CNC-Dude [ Sat Jun 17, 2017 6:52 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Yeah, if your head isn't seeping or weeping water now, why take the chance of it starting by using a copper gasket. It's not a 100% sure thing that it will if using the copper gasket, but it can. Just go ahead and do the cam swap now to correct the issue and only get your hands greasy once. |
Author: | DusterIdiot [ Sat Jun 17, 2017 7:51 am ] |
Post subject: | x2 |
Quote: Id ditch that Comp 264 and go to the 280/270 to lower your DCR.
That would do it. |
Author: | SpaceFrank [ Sat Jun 17, 2017 9:22 am ] |
Post subject: | |
I agree with Josh. Swapping a cam in-car is not a small undertaking, so if you're not ready to do it soon, I'd just run higher octane fuel for now. Have you played with your valve lash any? If it'll run well with tighter lash, that might also help bring your DCR down a little. On the subject of cam swapping, what year is your Valiant? Drool tube head or peanut plug? |
Author: | Bare Metal Maz [ Sat Jun 17, 2017 1:55 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Appreciate the comments guys. Car is an Aussie 1965 Valiant AP6. I've looked into doing an in-car cam swap and believe it is possible. |
Author: | slantzilla [ Sat Jun 17, 2017 3:38 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Yes, it is possible, but pulling the motor is a much better way to do it, and is probably easier. |
Author: | sandy in BC [ Sat Jun 17, 2017 4:31 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
I could pull the motor (with 5 speed) in an hour and a half....in my 65 Valaint Two hours to put it back. That gives the rest of the afternoon over to the cam swap. Doing it in the car seems like a chiropractic nightmare. |
Author: | emsvitil [ Sat Jun 17, 2017 5:04 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
This doesn't look that bad....... http://www.slantsix.org/articles/in-car ... review.htm |
Author: | DusterIdiot [ Sat Jun 17, 2017 5:53 pm ] |
Post subject: | Can't... |
Quote: If it'll run well with tighter lash
Comp runs Chevy lobes the lash is .012, anymore than .001 and it gets really salty and doesn't like to run)...
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Author: | SpaceFrank [ Sun Jun 18, 2017 10:29 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Removing the oil pump sounds like the hardest part to me, unless your particular vehicle has body panels in the way of the camshaft coming out. I've read a lot of posts on this site talking about how difficult it is to swap oil pumps with the engine in the car, but it's supposedly possible if you jack the engine way up and do a lot of wiggling. Has anyone aside from DD actually done an in-car cam swap on a SL6? |
Author: | emsvitil [ Sun Jun 18, 2017 6:27 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
I suppose you don't have to fully take the engine out........ Maybe just lift the engine until the oil pump has easy access and the cam can go out the radiator opening......................... |
Author: | slantzilla [ Sun Jun 18, 2017 6:31 pm ] |
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Will the oil pump come out with the steering in the way? I am guessing an Aussie car is RHD? |
Author: | SlantSteve [ Mon Jun 19, 2017 12:33 am ] |
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Quote: Will the oil pump come out with the steering in the way? I am guessing an Aussie car is RHD?
You could probably do it,but as you can appreciate it's tight in that area on a LH drive vehicle,the RH steering box ain't going to do you much in the way of favours to make the job any easier. Throw in the time and back breaking labour to pull the harmo,timing cover,oil pump,radiator etc etc all whilst in the car and add in the risk of potential oil leaks I'd be pulling the engine and working on a stand. Degree the cam and seal it up well and it's all good. So what's been machined?? The head or block? If your just trying to lower the comp for now perhaps just put another stock head on,then pull it when your ready to swap cams?
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