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| Rebuilding a 170 https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=61290 |
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| Author: | mopar_nocar [ Fri Jun 23, 2017 1:14 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Rebuilding a 170 |
Parts availability OK with the 170? Just found out I have one, and think it will need a rebuild before too long and just thinking out loud at this point. sb |
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| Author: | mopar_nocar [ Fri Jun 23, 2017 1:29 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Finding it is mostly same-same |
Most of the parts are all the same: rod bearings: https://www.summitracing.com/search?Sor ... rd=62375cp mains: https://www.summitracing.com/search?Sor ... word=4092m pistons: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-244np60 looks pretty good. Better pricing out there? sb |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Fri Jun 23, 2017 3:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | You might try... |
http://www.northernautoparts.com/part/ek-ek0164 You might be able to get a full 225 kit and use it since the 170 shares all the forged crank "component" parts the Pre-1976 225 would use except the block, crank, and rods... Not sure what they include for camshafts in these kits now a days.... and you will have to pull your engine apart an mic the journals to see what size bearings you need (and what overbore for pistons and rings...) You could also comparatively shop at Rockauto for a kit as well... |
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| Author: | mopar_nocar [ Fri Jun 23, 2017 4:44 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
That might work. I have not used NAP before... Aside from usual rebuild stuff, any tips specifically for a 170? Cam selection or valve sizes, etc. It has been a while, but I have built a few 225s but this is the first 170 I have seen in person! I imagine it will be mostly the same, but I don't want to build a peaky little beast. sb |
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| Author: | bcschief [ Fri Jun 23, 2017 6:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Pushrods are shorter because the deck height is lower but thats about all the parts you would normally replace in a rebuild. Brian |
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| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Sat Jun 24, 2017 3:14 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
The main thing to be aware of with a 170, is it is a "zero" deck motor. The piston comes all the way to the top of the block, or very close to it. Where a 225 piston is pretty far down from the deck. As such, you need to be more carefull of piston to valve clearance, if you mill the head and/or put in a big cam. Also be aware that the deck cannot be milled very much (just a lite cleanup), without the piston being too high. As mentioned, the main differences in parts is , block crank rods push rods All "normal" rebuild parts are the same as for the forged crank 225 |
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