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Trying to wake a slant after 17 years.
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=61371		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Kerosene [ Sat Jul 15, 2017 2:58 pm ]
Post subject:  Trying to wake a slant after 17 years.
So I brought home a stray 66 Dart with a slant six, the car appears to have sat since 2001.The previous owner pulled it out of someone's backyard and threw a bunch of money at trying to make it run(new fuel pump, distro cap and rotor, plugs and wires, rebuild 1 barrel) but gave up when the car bent 4 pushrods on his first crank.

When I got it home the rockers were bone dry and adjusted super tight. So I oiled it all and backed all the adjustments off, and turned it all by hand for a while. I've since got the car to idle, buts it not happy with getting more air, and absolutely hates quick throttle movement. It seems like it tries to cough out the intake, and then dies.

I suspect timing maybe weird. The distributor cap is turned almost as far as it can be counter clockwise, any movement clockwise cause the idle to get slow and sloppy. Anyone got any advice, so I can get this car running before I die of carbon monoxide? 😀
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sat Jul 15, 2017 3:05 pm ]
Post subject: 
The carburetor's going to need a lot of TLC. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download.

Tune-up parts and technique suggestions are in this thread.
Author:  Kerosene [ Sat Jul 15, 2017 6:39 pm ]
Post subject: 
I'll have to tinker with the carb tommorow. Thunderstorms ran me out of the car port tonight. Thanks for the links
Author:  GTS225 [ Sun Jul 16, 2017 4:14 am ]
Post subject: 
I might suggest you check the timing, as in looking for a jumped timing chain. Possibly even a "spun" harmonic balancer. It could be the reason for the distributor being cranked as far as it is.
It might take another set of eyes, but with the distributor cap off and the plugs out, hand crank the engine fore-and-aft, watching to see how much play there is before rotor moves. This will give you a (very) basic idea how much slop there is in the chain and distributor gear system.
Then, pull the valve cover and hand crank it to top dead center, intake and exhaust valve closed on #1 cylinder. Check the alignment between timing mark on balancer and stationary tab. This will give you an indication of a jumped chain, or spun balancer.
A spun balancer is less likely, but it has been known to happen.

Roger
Author:  Kerosene [ Sun Jul 16, 2017 4:46 pm ]
Post subject: 
I worked with the car long enough today, that I am convinced the problem is in the carb. The timing and valves are fine. I can't rev the car enough to check to see if advance is working. It still dies the second the butterfly moves and I am pretty sure its a no fuel issue.

I found the remains of a rebuild kit for the carb in the truck. I opened the fuel bowl and the float spring was just laying in there. The bowl valve vent is missing. So I guess I'll need to pull it and verify it's assembly is correct and see if anything else is missing.

Doesn't seem like it, but any chance that bowl vent could be causing problems?
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sun Jul 16, 2017 7:09 pm ]
Post subject: 
Go read the links I provided.
Author:  pishta [ Mon Jul 17, 2017 8:47 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Doesn't seem like it, but any chance that bowl vent could be causing problems?
no.

Check your accelerator pump linkage. does it squirt fuel instantly? If not, thats not good. If your pump diaphragm is bad, it will weep out the pinhole on the side of the barrel. 1bbl 1920 I assume? The bowl vent missing will just stink up the garage. 1920 is pretty easy to rebuild with a screwdriver and a crescent wrench. all the gauges are included with the kit.
Author:  Kerosene [ Fri Jul 21, 2017 6:38 pm ]
Post subject: 
I am fairly certain at this point that the carb is working as it should. Accelerator pump sprays fuel, and all the passages are clear. The points were way off, and barely opening if they were opening at all. They are at .20 now.. I pulled the spark plugs verified the gap. New plugs are now sooty black.The car idles best about 8 bdc by the timing marks with a timing light, but seems to have a miss, it idles like it has a big cam in it.

The car still goes dead the second you move the throttle open, and occasionally breaths fire out the carb. It really feels like like spark goes away on throttle.

Only thing I know to do now is mechanically verify the timing, and check the timing chain.
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Fri Jul 21, 2017 6:51 pm ]
Post subject: 
Sounds like stuck valves -- not a surprise on an engine sitting so long. Valves stuck open = flameback through the carb and rough running. Valves stuck closed = bent pushrods you very likely have now and rough running.

See here.
Author:  Kerosene [ Fri Jul 21, 2017 7:01 pm ]
Post subject: 
I'll check that. I made sure the perviously bent push rod valves were free. They were all moving enough at idle to adjust.
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