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Yikes. K-Member just broke... need advice please!
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=61415		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  MattyBrown [ Fri Jul 21, 2017 9:37 pm ]
Post subject:  Yikes. K-Member just broke... need advice please!
Hey Folks,

Look what happened today in my '73 Valiant (year round daily driver). This is passenger side where strut meets K-member. No impact or anything traumatic either. Just suddenly developed a weird, loud clunking (and slight steering weirdness) when I hit the brakes. Shocking to discover!

Image

Image

Must have been cracking for a while. The good news is this couldn't have happened at a better time. Planning to pull the engine within the next couple months to fix a leaking rear main seal. Looks like I'll be killing two birds with one stone!

Nevertheless, my head is swimming a bit. I feel I need advice. Should I try to have the K member welded? Or look for a replacement? Any tips on where the hell I'm gonna find one? Do most A-Bodies with a Slant 6 have this same k frame? Should I look for local cars with a recent V8 swap? Where do I begin!!

Any advice anyone can share is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

-Matt
Author:  Danarchy [ Fri Jul 21, 2017 9:45 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
look for a replacement.
:shock: :?:
Author:  Reed [ Fri Jul 21, 2017 10:12 pm ]
Post subject: 
Absolutely find a replacement. Any 73-76 slant six A body k-frame will work. I was able to find one on For A Bodies Only earlier this year for $90 including shipping. They are surprisingly lightweight and cheap to ship. Mine shipped from Arizona to Washington.
Author:  Joshie225 [ Fri Jul 21, 2017 10:51 pm ]
Post subject: 
Shoot, I say weld it. That reinforcing plate was never fully welded from the factory. You'll need to pull the lower control arm to get the strut rod in and out. If you can find a K-member it may be less money than having someone fix it for you, but I learned to weld to support my car hobby so I'm probably in a different situation than you.
Author:  sandy in BC [ Sat Jul 22, 2017 8:08 am ]
Post subject: 
That should be an easy weldup.
Author:  Reed [ Sat Jul 22, 2017 9:16 am ]
Post subject: 
If you are going to weld it, I would get the whole thing sandblasted and inspected for rust-out and other cracks. While you are at it, you might as well reinforce all the factory welds and weld the perimeter to add stiffness.
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Sat Jul 22, 2017 9:34 am ]
Post subject:  x2
I would support Reed's opinion... even if you buy a replacement, I would make sure the factory welds get rewelded... the 73-76's sometimes got some poor factory quality control at the steering box attachment as well...

That also gives you a chance to paint it to protect it....


Just on another suspension note... if your K did this, I would also be looking at the body mounts for the upper control arms, as that's a known rust and fail spot on these cars....
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Sat Jul 22, 2017 3:24 pm ]
Post subject: 
Welderup.


You can never have too much bead.

Greg
Author:  Danarchy [ Sun Jul 23, 2017 9:29 am ]
Post subject: 
J-B Weld oughta hold it!
Quote:
'73 Valiant (year round daily driver).
Probably has 9" drum brakes and a single pot master cylinder!

Get a REPLACEMENT and weld it! also a good time to rebuild the suspension!
Author:  Joshie225 [ Sun Jul 23, 2017 11:18 am ]
Post subject: 
1967 model year cars received tandem master cylinders on the production line as did their successors.

Many 1973 cars do have drum brakes, but at least by then the 9" drums were finned and didn't fade as badly. I have direct experience fading the 9" drum brakes in my '66 Dart and less of that in my '73 Duster.
Author:  MattyBrown [ Mon Jul 24, 2017 8:27 am ]
Post subject: 
I'm lucky in that whoever purchased my car originally had the front drums upgraded to 10". Definitely has more stopping power than the 9" fronts that I've driven.

Can't thank you guys enough for weighing in.

Here's what's happened:

My dad jumped into the situation and broke out his welder. He took a come-along and pulled the control arm back so that the strut rod/plate was back in its original position. He removed the bushing (as to not melt it) and welded the hell out of it also adding plates to reinforce the areas that had cracked away. It's not the prettiest thing you've ever seen but I'm confident that its currently more secure than it ever was before. So this buys me some time to continue driving the car while I figure out what to do next. It would be nice if I could find another K-member to prepare in advance for when the engine eventually comes out. I'm gonna keep an eye on Craigslist and see if anything turns up.

Thanks again. Really appreciate all the advice!

-Matt
Author:  MattyBrown [ Mon Jul 24, 2017 9:07 pm ]
Post subject: 
Also want to add that he sandblasted the area before he welded. Don't want you guys thinking the welds were done on all that surface rust!
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