You might end up with no car.........
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| '67 dart dash refurbishing https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=61495 |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Fri Aug 11, 2017 7:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | '67 dart dash refurbishing |
I found an extra '67 dash to refurbish (while I drive with the existing one). First step was to remove the old paint (paint remover, a soft wire brush, lots and lots of patience and the garden hose). Below is a link to the pics after I removed all the paint. https://www.flickr.com/photos/151192512 ... 7391539566 As you can see, there is rust in the usual places, near where the fuse box attaches, underside, etc. You can see on the top surface the difference of where the pad was and was not, rust where the pad didn't protect the area. The dash is in nice shape, I only found one dent near the glove box area (very shallow, hard to see). Now on to rust removal with evaporust. I'll have to get an old rain barrel or something tall to soak it in. I'll post more pics as I go. Brian |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Sat Aug 12, 2017 11:12 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Just wet some rags with evaporust, place them on rusted target keep wet until clean enough. Back side of my 67 convertible dash had surface rust, I did not remove it. I did paint the worn off plastic chrome trim with spray chrome (fancy silver paint) then clear coated just the painted chrome area. I looks clean and uniform, and after a hundred car shows no one has commented on the silver paint which means it looks ok. I painted the plastic A Pillar interior trim black, they were chrome on GT Convertible to trick eye into accepting fake spray chrome. Same treatment on plastic behind door arm rest The plastic panels covering glove box and area between over to gauge cluster are attached with double sided tape. I removed them before painting the steel dash with a mat or satin black, while removed the silver was applied, gloss black to plastic panels, reattached with double stick carpet tape. Been nine years since dash re-do, still looks fresh. If you have a steady hand a fine artist paint brush and white model paint will freshen up lettering labeling switches and heater controls. |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Sat Aug 12, 2017 1:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Thanks Wjajr. |
I've never tried the wet rag technique, sounds good, but I'm too lazy to keep the rags wet, monitor. I like to dunk the part in evaporust and come back in a few days, sometimes weeks depending on my schedule, and find a rust free part waiting for me. Folks around here (wineries etc) sell plastic food grade 50 gallon drums for like $10, I'll get one of those and soak the part. What I'm trying to figure out is how to soak my hood in evaporust...I think a very large ziplock bag from Uline or maybe some plastic sheeting and a frame built from 2 x 4's or something...evaporust is the only way I'm going to get the rust from inside the bracing under the hood, it'll have to be soaked. Brian |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Sun Aug 13, 2017 6:19 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Evaporust must real cheep on the left coast... if you are using a 55 gal drum for a dunk tank. The rag method is listed on label for dealing with large items. If you wire brush as much loose rust off as posable, degrease area, it won't take long to remove the rest of rust. Most of the rust on my dash was located on back side, and was very superficial. I just power wire brushed it, and spayed areas effected with "Rust Treament" made by Peratex that converts rust into a stable black compound, and can be painted over in 24 hours. |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Sun Aug 13, 2017 9:22 am ] |
| Post subject: | evaporust prices... |
No, it's not cheap, but you can dilute it up as needed (walmart has the best price I've found). I have used a gallon diluted up to a huge amount to soak my K-frame. It slows the process down, but it still works fine. yes, the rust converter is a nice product as well. It converts iron oxide into iron phosphate, which will seal in any rust and can be primed and painted. It is also water based. I have wondered about the soaked rag method, good to hear someone tried it and it works. Brian |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Sun Aug 13, 2017 11:56 am ] |
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Quote: It converts iron oxide into iron phosphate
Yeah that's the stuff. I try not to bother my silly little head with anything chemistry... I have a resident chemist on staff around here; my wife, Mrs WJAJR.
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Sun Aug 13, 2017 4:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | new pics... |
I settled on a 23 gallon plastic trash can. I took Wjarjr's comment on the 55 gallon drum to heart - needless extra volume. I took the diluted gallon of evaporust in my 5 gallon "derust" bucket (used for two years now), bought a fresh gallon of evaporust, added them to the trash can and diluted up to 23 gallons with the garden hose. Added new pics: https://www.flickr.com/photos/151192512 ... 384638532/ You can see that I can soak more than half of the dash at once. After about 12h, you can see the results. All the light surface rust is gone, note the clear line indicating the water line, just about in line with the radio hole in the dash. Look at the bottom, where the really heavy rust was, you can see the evaporust is working on those areas, just hasn't gotten all of it yet. A few days and it'll be rust free. Then I'll flip it over and do the other side (not as bad as this half). This stuff is great. Brian |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Sun Aug 13, 2017 8:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | hmmm..... |
what I really would like is a swimming pool full of this stuff...dunk the whole car body in it for a week - no rust anyplace! b |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Sun Aug 13, 2017 9:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
You might end up with no car.........
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| Author: | 65 dartman [ Mon Aug 14, 2017 7:17 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I bought a 5 gal bucket of evaporust - need to figure how much to dilute it so I can soak my dash. |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Mon Aug 14, 2017 9:20 am ] |
| Post subject: | dilution |
65Dartman, you won't need to use the whole 5 gallons. I'm using 2 gallons diluted to 23 gallons in the tall trash can, it's working well. I could have gotten away with 1 gallon, it would just be slower. BTW, I've let large volumes evaporate down to a few gallons and put them back into my 5 gallon bucket, it still works. I believe a fresh gallon of this stuff can eat a lot of rust. I've never had a solution quick working, but I have had them slow down a lot due to repeated use and doing dirty parts in it, it gets all gunked up. If you can remove all the gunk and old paint from the part first, it prolongs the useful life of the product. brian |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Tue Aug 15, 2017 10:37 am ] |
| Post subject: | progress... |
I added a few pics showing progress, a few hours shy of 48 hours. https://www.flickr.com/photos/151192512 ... 391539566/ You can see the evaporust is down to the deepest rust spots now, the remaining metal is untouched, it only removes the rust and it will get all of it, every molecule. This is important because that bottom tray piece that is spot welded to the body of the frame, between the two, there is rust in there. No way I'd be able to get that rust out without some liquid that can penetrate in there. Brian |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Wed Aug 16, 2017 8:01 am ] |
| Post subject: | paint for dash plastic |
Does anyone know good paints to match the black and the silver painted parts of the chromed plastic dash parts of a '67-69 dart? The gloss black and the silver strip that is painted onto the chrome. Brian |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Wed Aug 16, 2017 11:09 am ] |
| Post subject: | more pics... |
Added rust removal pics, day 3: https://www.flickr.com/photos/151192512 ... 7391539566 You can see steady progress, this is where the fully concentrated evaporust would be quicker, down in those pits of rust. But, it'll work, by the weekend that side should be done and I can flip it over and do the (not as bad) side of the dash. b |
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| Author: | Reed [ Wed Aug 16, 2017 11:15 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Wow! Nice work. That stuff is pretty amazing. |
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