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| Gauges not working https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=61730 |
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| Author: | dirtyd100 [ Thu Dec 14, 2017 9:08 am ] |
| Post subject: | Gauges not working |
I had posted something about my gauges not working before the big crash and do not remember if the light switch has anything to do with the gauges besides dim the lights? I have soldered the pins on the back of my gauge cluster and I have a FSM for my truck but I get lost trying to trace the wires to where they end up from the back of the cluster. (if it was residential wiring I would be good) Does the cluster get it's ground from the metal dash where it mounts? Thanks |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Fri Dec 15, 2017 5:44 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Gauges not working |
Dash pod gets ground via attachment screws to dash. If you think that factory ground path is ineffective then attach a jumper from pod and land it on dash frame, a #14 gauge conductor should be more than enough. Temperature and fuel gauge both require stepped down voltage of around 5 volts that is supplied from voltage limiter. This device can be found in earlier cars mounted within fuel gauge, later built vehicles use a stand alone limiter, it's a 1.5" x 3/4" tin covered thing with three spades that plug into circuit board. Mechanical limiters as previously described function by a set of points attached to a strip of bi metal that has 12volts supplied to them. The bi metal heats, distorts, makes and brakes points at a rate that delivers an average of 5 volts to both gauges. Both fuel and temperature gauges also relie on heat to move their pointers. If limiter fails with points stuck closed, that average voltage feed to gauges, becomes 12v and fries the gauges' inner coil. If limiter fails points open, then no damage to gauges; they just aren't getting any voltage. Your wire diagram will indicate conductor gauge, color, and circuit lay-out of this limiter circuit. Keep in mind gauge circuits work with voltage supplied to gauge, to sender, and then to ground. So you will have to inspect bulkhead connector's condition, grounding of sender, and clean or replace as needed with new brass those connections high resistance due to corrosion or heat damage, or replace defective sending unit. Where both gauges are dysfunctional, suspect a limiter problem or 12 volt feed to limiter. Dash lights & cabin lights are a separate circuit feed from headlight switch's rheostat, most likely a yellow or orange conductor (sorry can't remember which), and don't have anything to do with gauge function; but lighting is an easy circuit to follow under dash. I sometimes draw out on a sheet of paper whatever circuit I investigating, noting color, general lay-out of conductor path, any switches, and bulkhead connection location before attempting locating & following said circuit in the car. It just makes the whole process go a lot easier. Tip: A test light will blink on and off down stream from voltage limiter if it is working. |
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| Author: | 75valiant [ Mon Dec 18, 2017 11:52 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Gauges not working |
you can either buy a new solid state IVR from these guys: rt-eng.com/rte/index.php/RTE_limiter or you can make your own for about 10 bucks in parts, by looking up the article in Mopar Action by richard ehrenberg. problem is, radio shack is mostly out of business now, so it might not be as simple as it was for me when i did mine. i'm not very competent on the subject, but i'm lucky and smart enough to have friends who are, so the upgrade was a fantastic and affordable thing for me. i know that slantsixdan is a guru on lighting and electron flow, as well. in fact, i stole the above link from a thread he posted. |
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| Author: | dirtyd100 [ Mon Dec 18, 2017 7:28 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Gauges not working |
Thanks guys, very helpful |
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