Hello All! I have been trying to get a replacement engine into my 62 Lancer but have been having one challenge after the next. The (2nd) replacement engine I picked up from the junkyard is from a 70 something truck and the crankshaft pulley sits about 1" our further from the engine block than the original. If I try using the water pump from the original engine, the fan blades hit the pulley. The water pump that came with the replacement engine has a longer shaft that compensates for this. My question is: If I drop this engine in, will the fan blade be right up against the radiator? Or should there be enough clearance still? And, will that extra inch that the pulley sticks out cause a problem for the belts since they will be slightly offset? And...what other problems might arise that I am totally unaware of?

Thank you!!!!

Have you tried pushing the crank damper back onto the crank snout? It sounds like someone started to pull the damper off and it just needs to be pressed back onto the crnak.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I just pounded it with a rubber mallet, did not seem to move.

A rubber mallet won't do squat. If it moved with a rubber mallet you'd be in trouble while running. A small sledge would work, but at the risk of damaging the thrust bearing. The inner nose of the crank is threaded for a 3/4" bolt. You can use one with a heavy washer to press the damper on. Better yet a legit tool intended for the job with a bearing to make it a bit easier.

That damper has seen better days. The rubber ring looks uneven and damaged on the left side. You're better off pulling it out and installing a rebuilt or new unit.

It's a late engine with the unicast 2 race pulley... the outer race lines up with the magnetic pickup tube, so it is seated...

I would honestly pull the engine apart anyway clean it and get your lancers oil pan, pick up, water pump, timing cover and damper on this engine
and regasket it anyway so you can see if the oil pan is full of jello, or oil pump full of coffee grounds...unless they fired it off in front of you, I would
be skeptical about a 30+ year old junkyard engine now-a-days...

You will need a damper puller, and a damper installer (a long bolt and washers can be used if the crank snout has been cleaned out...)

62alumblock, the thread for the crank snout is 3/4-16. I was not able to find a suitable bolt (could find plenty of length, but not enough threads on the shaft) so I got some allthread and made some balancer install tools. I have several left over from the looooong piece of allthread. If you're interested in one, I'm getting rid of the extras at cost + shipping, it's usually about $15. Send me a PM if you're interested...

3/4"-16 bolts are hard to find at typical hardware stores (nobody seems to carry fine-thread bolts in that big a diameter). I've had good luck at specialty hardware stores like Fastenal or Grainger. If you don't have one of those near you, you can order one online. McMaster-Carr has everything. 2" long has always worked for me. Don't forget to include a big-ass fender washer.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

John Deere if you have one near by

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1964 Dodge A100 Truck

maybe, but the timing indicator looks like the one on my '83

which makes me think that motor is a cast crank large register motor
not a show stopper but
1) if your '62 is an auto, your will need a register adapter
2) if your '62 is a manual, be sure to verify that the crank in the
replacement motor has the pilot bore machined to size for diameter and depth.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8