Hello,
My apologies if this has been covered before but I couldn't find it searching the old threads.
I'm changing the head gasket on my dad's 1962 Lancer. After a long search I tracked down a gasket, and because it's so scarce it's a bit intimidating and I want to make sure I do it right for him. I could use your guys help clearing up some confusion as well as some install tips.
First Issue: My shop manual says "all torque specs for aluminum...are the same as cast...with exception of the main bearing cap bolts...torque these to 50 ft pounds"
I read a Hot Rod article "slant sickness" and they torqued head / gasket to 50lbs....but the HG failed at the end. And I read Doc torquing to 55-60 on his build but with studs. My shop book says 65 ft lbs.
Second Issue: Shop manual says "none of these bolts including the cylinder head bolts, should be retightened with the engine at normal operating temperature. This is important because of changes in torque values due to expansion of the materials involved."
I've read here a lot of guys retorquing after a few cycles and adjusting valves.

What's the torque for stock cylinder head bolts on an aluminum block?
I'm planing on torquing, loosening and retightening to spec per shop manual...Are you guys retorquing once cooled after several cycles and valve lash adjustment or warm?
Loctite, oil, antiseize...how do you treat the head bolts?
Book states "coat a new gasket in sealer", I'm planing on using permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket on this old stock copper gasket...thoughts?

Thank you very much for the help and previous threads, very helpful.

-Dave

Methinks this would best be answered by Doug, (Doc Dodge), our local slant expert, and more experienced founding member.

Roger