Hey guys,

I have a 1964 Dart that I use as my daily driver. The 170 in it is tired and I the blow-by is getting worse pretty quickly. I want to find a 225 to throw in it. I would like to find an engine that doesn't need to go to a machine shop to make it functional. I don't mind doing things like gaskets, distributor, fuel pump, water pump, intake and exhaust studs with remflex gaskets, etc. I just don't want to have a major engine overhaul immediately if at all possible. I have located a couple via FABO and some junk yards, but they seem to be less common than what I thought they would be. What should I be looking at spending for a 225 that will run with some new gaskets and tune work? Is this a $200.00 engine, or is it a $1000.00 engine. Your thoughts and help are greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Doug

Prices are all over the place. I got a 170 long block at the cost of a couple of board posts and a slight detour on a work trip. The '76 225 I'm running now cost $200. It would have run as I got it, but I did replace the timing chain and re-seal the oil pan.

Slant Sixes are uncommon in the salvage yards around here.

If you're using an automatic, remember the crank register issue with later engines/earlier engines. You may need one of those adapter rings.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Prices really must be figured on a case basis, but you can probably stay under $500 for a decent used engine.

Any used engine is a shot in the dark unless you can disassemble it, do a compression or leakdown test, or employ some other information gathering techniques.

Learn as much as you can, but keep the initial investment low to allow for what you overlooked. There's always something...

Try craigslist or backyard browsing, or ask around at the local parts store or machine shop. Sometimes you can find an under-the-bench special

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O==\=/==O

"A mechanic is Somebody."
- Jim Preston

If you want to sell a really nice used Slant Six, it is worth about $75 if you are willing to be patient and wait at least 6 months for a seller to come along. You will need to help him load it and be OK with waiting until he gets his tax refund check to pay you.

If you want to buy a Slant Six that might or might be any good (no guarantees, dude) but leaks rusty water out of the spark plug holes, you will need to look for at least 6 months, drive three states over, and pay around $4,000, cash in advance.

That's how I roll, anyway.

After my latest $200 engine purchase from Craigslist, I've decided that any future "running engines" I buy will have the valve covers removed before money changes hands. Making sure the crankshaft turns over is good, but making sure the previous owner ever changed the oil is better. Hell, if you plan to do a gasket job anyway then convince the seller to let you pull the head and make sure the bores aren't full of rust.

Ditto what was said about the crank register. You're a lot more likely to find a 68+ engine, so you'll probably need a spacer ring for your '64 torque converter snout if you have an automatic. I'm not sure if this is an issue with a manual transmission.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

Too bad you are so far away.
I have a '67 long block taking up space in my garage.
I would give it to someone that would use it.

An endoscope camera attached to a cell phone can determine whether the motor is sludged, a glimpse under the oil filler cap also will do that. The spark plugs usually are a good indicator. I may get a used GM 5.3 - there are lots of cheap used late model motors - avoid sludge and you've got more than a coin toss chance of finding a good one. As someone once said "trust but verify"

since you have been on FABO you know there are folks pulling slants from A bodies to put in in a 360, hemi,
make a M car clone,, so the slants are out there, problem is, some of these guys think there is a slant six cult that will
pay a half a grand for the motor they don't want, I said some, not all.
Some of these FABO engine swappers post videos of the running motor before it was pulled,, that's good.

Since your motor is still running, time is on your side, I would put up a post in the parts wanted section,
at .org and FABO,be honest, say you want it cheap, but will pay for the right motor, considering travel time....
Depending upon where you are in PA,, some of the racers that frequent here, Greg O or one of the
Covalt Clan may be helpful to you in running down a good slant motor.

Personally I think 200.00 for a smooth running slant, that I did not have to drive cross country to get would be fair
to both parties. Note the post about the crankshaft register and an adapter.
Although I have picked up slants for anywhere from free to 40.00 for a complete super six motor. I got them because
the price was right, I did not need them for a vehicle.

I would not get too far bent concerning the sludge issue,, any motor that ran the motor oils available in the 60's and 70's
will have sludge, unless some one has gone through the motor,, and from what I am hearing, that is not what you
are after. With the right motor, I would plan on pulling the valve cover and oil-pan - timing cover, cleaning out the crud
and installing new gaskets,, to go one step further, put a new timing chain on it.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

A few weeks ago I got a 225 from a '66 Barracuda that was clean. I don't think the motor had been run much since it had been rebuilt. Our three large local the self-service salvage companies have alert systems which enable you to enter a search such as '1960 - 1987 Dodge", and they will send you a text message when a car arrives. I find these services very helpful. Row52.com is also useful.

Around here you won't find a slant in running condition unless you buy the whole car. Most were scrapped for V8s years ago. I bought one from DadTruck that would have run just fine with a gasket set and timing chain, but I had to drive several states away to get it. It really all depends on where you live.

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.