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PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2019 10:10 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sat Mar 23, 2019 11:30 am
Posts: 13
Car Model: 1967 dodge dart 270 2 door hardtop
Hi there. So I'm looking for some help removing the harmonic balancer in my dart. From what I can tell most slant sixes did not come with a retaining bolt from the factory except on heavy duty applications and they were instead held on by an "interference fit" which I assume means it was pushed on to a tapered end on the shaft. My dart doesn't have a retaining bolt. So I went to pull it off with the puller and when my center bolt pushed up against the end of the crankshaft the motor began turning over. Is the center bolt on the puller supposed to thread into the inside of the crankshaft and then pull the balancer off when it hits the dead end? My bolt is 3/4'' and it doesn't want to thread in. though this could be because the threads inside aren't very clean. What is the correct way to pull the balancer off? This is my first time tearing an engine apart so I apologize in advance if my questions sound stupid. Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2019 10:39 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
Posts: 7834
Location: Portland-ish
Car Model: Fiat 500e
The damper puller should have a cone on the center bolt to keep the bolt from entering the crankshaft. That bolt pushes on the crank to force the damper off and should not enter the crankshaft. To keep the engine from spinning you can take the starter out and use a large screwdriver on the ring gear teeth to keep the engine from spinning.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2019 5:25 am 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 8967
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
Car Model:
I would suggest sticking a smaller bolt in the threaded hole in the crank, for the puller to press against. Some pullers, will force themselves in the end of the crank, and mess up the threads. Then it will be hard to draw the damper back on. Make sure the puller you use, is the kind that bolts on to the hub of the damper, and not the kind that grabs the outer ring. To keep the engine from spinning, I usually stick a bar or large screwdriver, between two of the bolts that hold the puller to the damper.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2019 9:05 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sat Mar 23, 2019 11:30 am
Posts: 13
Car Model: 1967 dodge dart 270 2 door hardtop
I figured that's how it was supposed to go and like you said Charlie I was kind of concerned that the cone part was pushing into the threads on the crank so I'll make sure to put a bolt in there. Although I'm gonna try the bar method between those two bolts, would putting the car into drive work too, or even in second gear? or would this do damage to it? My car is currently sitting on jack stands so I don't think it would go anywhere and its an automatic


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2019 10:08 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2012 4:29 pm
Posts: 737
Location: Houston
Car Model: 68 Valiant
Putting it in gear won't help a bit with an auto trans. All gears are neutral until you develop fluid pressure.

For the record, the crank snout is not tapered. It's just a cylinder shape.

You should do whatever you need to ensure the puller bolt is contacting a good surface that it can press (hard) against. For the backyard mechanic, this means using a few washers that fit inside the damper hub. The hole in the washer should be small enough that it does not allow the puller bolt to pass through. Really, a solid disc of steel about 3/8" thick would be best, and if that disc had a center countersink that held the puller bolt on center, even better. The point is...you don't want the puller bolt directly touching the crank. If you have an impact wrench to turn the puller bolt, you usually don't need to worry about the crank spinning.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2019 4:29 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Jul 20, 2008 10:20 am
Posts: 761
Location: St. Louis Park, MN
Car Model:
Many years ago I bought a two bolt puller from Montgomery Wards that had a center screw with a smaller diameter pilot that wasn't threaded and fits right into the 3/4 hole in the end of the crank. On a slant you have to use one 3/8" and one 5/16" bolt to bolt the puller to the balancer because of the way the bolt pattern is. I have pulled countless balancers with it and it always works perfectly.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2019 5:15 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sat Mar 23, 2019 11:30 am
Posts: 13
Car Model: 1967 dodge dart 270 2 door hardtop
Update on how it went. So I scrounged through my drawers and found some washers that fit, put the puller back on and it pulled off with no problems at all. Took the timing cover off and sure enough the chain jumped a cog so should be an easy fix from here on in!


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2019 6:01 pm 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer

Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
Posts: 9023
Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
M, Makita electric impact pulls them off without having to worry about holding anything. My puller has a large pilot that fits in the taper of the crank well. Never damaged any threads.

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