Hi all, I've browsed this board for several years, but haven't made an account since I haven't had a /6 in over 10yrs.

The truck is a little rough and needs some work to be the daily driver so I can work on my current DD truck. Pictured below is the mess under the hood.
https://i.imgur.com/Y2wWet0.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0HhVxUk.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/tWgrX3H.jpg

While I'm confident I can rebuild the carb (I believe it's a Holley 1945), I'd rather buy one done by someone with experience or get a decent newer carb to replace it. Any suggestions? I'm on the CT shoreline if you know of local places worth looking into. Or, if you wanna stop by and offer help, beer's on me.

I also have what I believe is a 1920 that was in the cab when I picked the truck up.
https://i.imgur.com/T4PYy8g.jpg

After fighting the drivers side mounting bolt for access, I'm looking for any suggestions on the easiest approach to rebuilding/replacing the carb.

Next on the list is vacuum lines. Some were capped, others removed. Is there a diagram with a picture of how it should look so I can compare while replacing the lines on my truck?

I've also gotta drop the fuel tank to clean it and run new fuel lines. Gonna do the filter as well. What size fuel line do I need? IIRC, it's 5/16ths, but I'd rather buy it once.

Well, I have some bad news for you. Your truck has what is known as a "lean burn" computer. In 1984 this meant that the computer attached to the side of the air cleaner could control the carburetor, the distributor, or both. Even if the computer does not control the mixture of the carburetor, the carburetor is not compatible with a non-computer controlled distributor (it does not have the correct fitting for the vacuum advance).

Also, the carburetor you found in your cab is Holley 1920, but it is from a mid to early 1960s vehicle that used the rod style throttle linkage. It will not work on your truck.

My advice is to get a single barrel carburetor from a noncomputer controlled application and to convert to the HEI ignition system. The HEI swap is detailed in the FAQ section of the electrical forum of this website. Because you have lean burn, the HEI swap is actually easier than is described in that article. You already don't have a ballast resistor. You only need to hook up four wires- the nes to the distributor and the ones to the + and - terminals of the coil. That's it.

If you are looking for an application to buy a carburetor or distributor, look for a 1978 Dodge D150.

Good luck.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

The biggest issue I have with not swapping my previous truck (an 87 D-150 w/ 318) or this one to HEI is actually getting the correct parts together.

The parts really aren't that hard to find. Get any standard electronic ignition distributor, an HEI unit from the parts store, a bunch of wire, and the correct terminals. Done.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

For a replacement fuel line,
Look at what Inline Tube offers.
I have used thier fuel and brake lines
on a couple of vehicles, nice stuff
factory fit, they will have oe steel or stainless.
Steel will probably be less than 75.00 and save
you the headache of bending-fitting a replacement line.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

I have a 1984 truck that came with the Lean Bum system and that same carburetor. I rebuilt it twice before throwing in the towel and replacing it with a 1920 like you showed. It never ran right. In the meantime I had replaced the Lean Bum with a regular electronic distributor and ignition module, but the carburetor never worked properly. Finally swapped it for a Super Six and HEI and drove it reliably to and from work daily (76 mile commute). The HEI swap is the best bang for the buck you can do.

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.