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Lower timing gear puller
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=63488		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  GregCon [ Mon Apr 08, 2019 7:56 pm ]
Post subject:  Lower timing gear puller
I opted for one of the fancy Rollmaster double row timing chains....it's a nice quality part.

But, IMO, they make the lower gear a tad on the tight side. With most gearsets, you can slide the lower gear over the crank with a 'little' effort, and you can remove it the same way. With the Rollmaster, there was no way the gear would come off without some serious effort. I think the average person would 'never' get the gear off without damaging it, or the crank, or both.

Normally, you could hone the ID of the gear a bit but with all the keyways cut into it, I'd be concerned that you'd end up with a gear that was no longer running true.

Anyway, I dragged out the puller I made ...half of which is actually half my Dana 80 differential yoke puller and the other half of which is made just for lower gears. This puller registers on the flat back side of the gear and does not touch the teeth...so you won't damage the integrity of the gear. I also included a photo of the thrust plate and ball bearing I use between the crank and puller screw to make it easy to turn, and to prevent damage to the crank. With this setup, the gear comes off with no concern, and fast. But I still don't like how tight the fit is!

Attachments:
lower gear puller snout.JPG
lower gear puller snout.JPG [ 92.17 KiB | Viewed 7639 times ]
lower gear puller.JPG
lower gear puller.JPG [ 116.9 KiB | Viewed 7639 times ]
Author:  Dart270 [ Tue Apr 09, 2019 8:55 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Lower timing gear puller
Yes, they are VERY hard to get off. I never use the keyways for timing adjustment, but drill out the cam gear to 3/8" and use bushings, for this reason. I have a Craftsman ratcheting 3-jaw puller (6 ton?) that works well for this too. $80 and worth every penny.

Lou
Author:  slantzilla [ Tue Apr 09, 2019 10:09 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Lower timing gear puller
We have a lot of hard to get off bearings on machines at work. We have those split plates and it makes the job 100 times easier, especially when it is a part that fits in the arbor press. :mrgreen:
Author:  CNC-Dude [ Tue Apr 09, 2019 10:19 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Lower timing gear puller
I think Rick Covalt had an issue with one of those timing sets before. The cam gear and crank gear were not in the same plane when they were installed and he had to machine one of them to get good gear alignment.
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Tue Apr 09, 2019 1:52 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Lower timing gear puller
Yes that is true. I believe Lou machined .030 off the back side of the gear to get better alignment. It is in my build thread somewhere. But I also work the inside on my gear with some sandpaper until I can get it on by adding just a little heat to the gear. Use a large socket wrapped in the sand paper. Take ones time. :D :D
Author:  CNC-Dude [ Tue Apr 09, 2019 3:17 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Lower timing gear puller
Was that the same build that you broke the ARP rod bolt in? Honing the crank gears and even the inside of new aftermarket harmonic balancers like ATI, Fluidamper, TCI and most all others is common practice in race shops, and their instructions often tell you to do it. Most shops have special keyway honing mandrel for doing it. But also don't assume the gears are concentric relative to the bore vs. where the teeth are machined, we had to return many of them to Cloyes in the past because they were more than .005" out of concentricity. That's another one of those unspoken tricks of the trade this is performed during race engine builds that most aren't aware of unless they've worked in that industry.
Author:  GregCon [ Tue Apr 09, 2019 7:37 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Lower timing gear puller
I wonder if these sprockets are bored then keyed or vice versa? It seems like the addition of keyways (especially 9 of them) would cause a finished bore to move around some. I pondered using a ball hone to 'bore' it out a little but for various reasons decided to simply reinstall it without any rework. The biggest reason is I couldn't find my ball hone in that size lol.

As for heating it to get it on....that really wasn't the issue in my case. It 'pressed' on easy enough using a harmonic damper installation tool. But getting it off is a different matter as your working room is mostly used up by the block and crank and you need to grab it with something sturdy to pull it off.

It was the only double roller chain I found (with not a ton of looking) and I think it's a decent part nonetheless. I just could do without the 9 keyways and the tight fit.
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Wed Apr 10, 2019 3:36 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Lower timing gear puller
Quote:
I believe Lou machined .030 off the back side of the gear to get better alignment
Just checked and mine was machined .060
Author:  GregCon [ Wed Apr 10, 2019 5:42 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Lower timing gear puller
.060" is a lot....are you sure you didn't leave a couple slices of baloney between the cam and gear?
Author:  emsvitil [ Wed Apr 10, 2019 2:58 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Lower timing gear puller
Which gear was machined?

If it was the crank gear, I'd think a shim on the cam gear would be more effective.
Author:  GregCon [ Thu Apr 11, 2019 2:42 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Lower timing gear puller
On the topic of the RollMaster chain....I hadn't noticed until today that they have a spiral oiling groove on the back side of the cam gear. Nice touch.

Attachments:
cam gear.JPG
cam gear.JPG [ 96.96 KiB | Viewed 7480 times ]
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Thu Apr 11, 2019 3:00 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Lower timing gear puller
I had the back of the crank gear machined .060 and used a .030 shim behind the cam gear. .090 total misalignment on mine.
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