Hi all,

I picked up five quarts of Castrol GTX high milage SAE 10W-30 at Auto zone as per their recommendation. However, it is a synthetic blend and I am not sure if I should put synthetic into this motor. They also said all oils including conventional have some synthetic additives now? Not sure on that one.

Next, this will be the first time the motor will be fired in approximately fifteen years. Does anyone recommend adding anything or spraying the cyliners with WD-40 to pre-lubricate them? Any other cold start tips are appreciated.

Paul

PS thanks everyone for helping me get this far.

That's a fine choice. All modern oils have a large synthetic component to them.

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Joshua

For a motor that has been setting for 15 years,
I would remove the sparkplugs and use as you mentioned use a light penetrating oil to pre lube the rings / cylinders.
If the front damper has a bolt in it, put a wrench on it and verify that the motor can be turned manually.
With the sparkplugs out, and the coil wire removed at the coil end, spin the motor over with the starter.
Brief bursts of 10 to 15 seconds to circulate the oil and get gas up to the carb. Once you see oil
pressure, look into the carb and depress the throttle once, you should see gas spray from the accelerator pump. If all looks good, re install the plugs and start the motor.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Thanks Joshie and Dadtruck,

As the engine is outside of the vehicle (in fact I have no vehicle to put it in yet) is there a way to hook up an oil pressure gage?

Paul

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Yes, Paul, there is. Look at your oil filter....now look slightly below it and to the rear of the engine. Screwed into the end of that oil pump housing is (or should be) a factory sending unit for the oil pressure. You can unscrew that, and install the appropriate fittings to directly install a mechanical gauge.

Roger

are you planning to start / run the motor that way?
if so, what is your plan to constrain it?

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Hi GTS225,

I am assuming that the plug looking thing is what you are talking about correct? I'll see if I can find one on rock auto. And am I correct in assuming that the reading is transferred electrically not hydraulically? Are aftermarket gauges an option?

Dadtruck, I have built a engine test stand for the motor. I have (hopefully since I've paid for it!) a flywheel coming in. Once I confirm it is the correct one, I will order a starter and sparkplug's then attempt to fire it. Probably two to four weeks out at this point. Getting the motor from the engine stand to the test stand was a little tricky, I'll have to post a photo later, and I still have some adjustments to do.

Paul

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Ok, re-reading my reply, I left out that what you're looking for is screwed into the oil pump housing, and points toward the rear of the engine. (Just in case I wasn't detailed enough.) If that's where your looking, and what you're seeing is more of a plug than a sender, then someone has removed the sender and put in a plug. I thought your intentions were to have a pressure gauge on the engine while you were testing it out of the car. (And yes, the original sender was either an electrical switch for the light, or sender if the vehicle was outfitted with a gauge in the dash.)
It sounds as if you're looking to put the proper switch/sender in there for the car that you're installing the engine into. If so, you will need to order it for the vehicle, and whether it's a gauge or light in the cluster.
If you want to install a temporary gauge in there for the test run, your local hardware store should be able to fix you up with the fittings you need, just get your mechanical gauge before you shop for the fittings.

Roger

Got you Rodger,

I would post a photo, but it's a tad complicated on mobile. Yes, there is a three prong piece in the place you mentioned. As far as the car, it will be a rat rod, so I just need to be able to read the pressure. Aesthetics will be interesting at best. I'll try and post a photo tomorrow.

Paul

Hmmmm, that sounds suspiciously like a gauge sender, rather than a simple switch. Either way, it can be removed in favor of a simple aftermarket adapter and compression fitting for a guage, assuming you want the oil pressure gauge in the cockpit. If you don't really need it there, you could put in a bushing or street ell as needed, and have the gauge hanging out in the breeze beside the filter.
OK, but I have a favor to ask. Don't go to too much extremes. I get the rat rod thing, and my slant-powered T is a bit ratty, but I'm not impressed by the cars/trucks that look like they'd be sketchy driving them down a back alley, let alone out in traffic. (Yeah, I know......you're not building it for me.) I just suggest that you remember the saying that "Less is More".

Roger

GTS225,

Here is a photo of the gauge. I'd like to see your T-bucket. Sounds like it could be a good study. And yes, I believe less is more.

Paul

Pretty sure that is the switch for the idiot light (one terminal) and the other two terminals are for the choke assist heater. Don't recall, offhand, which terminals are which. Would need to look at the wiring diagram.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

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Had some in the gallery, but went looking for them and realized I had forgotten that photobucket firetrucked everybody when they did their thing to extort money. I'm going to have to get some new pics and get them posted somewhere.

Roger

Got you and bummer about the photos. I will get a book for a 78 something and try and figure out the part. Good news is pistons are turning just fine. Odd thing was that I put 4.5 quarts of oil in it as per this site, but it still read high. I drained a little, but left a bit extra in there as the motor is at a very slight angel.

Paul