Looking for advice on an upcoming engine replacement for my 1973 Plymouth Duster. The original 225 has about 96,000 miles and is in dire need of replacement. If you watch the video links below you will see it has developed a massive amount of crankshaft end play.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1W6uoDI ... sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ynu4FA ... sp=sharing

It belches oil from the crank, but runs relatively (considering) well. I would assume the thrust bearing is no more. Part of me wants to see how long it will go, but I don’t trust it and it loses power as it heats up. The 904 is tired as well and in need of rebuild.
I am correct in saying the current block would make a poor choice for a rebuild as it is likely damaged from the wondering crank?

I am considering two choices right now of replacement motors i and looking for a little advice from the form. I am not skilled enough in engine rebuilding to do a rebuild myself---however I will do the install.

Option one:

This one currently available on craigslist.
https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/pts/d ... 46287.html

Having talked to the seller, the engine and trans was just pulled from a running car two weeks ago after recently completing a cross country trip from California to Pennsylvania. From the photos it obviously had a color change and super six installed. The seller knows a little about it only but it was a well running vehicle. The engine was pulled to make way for a 340. It is being sold complete with the 904.

From the identification marks, it would seem the 225 could be original---repainted and manifold changed. From the ID it shows its a 1972---and it does have the weird ‘X’ and cross markings



Option two:

The second option is an engine that I currently have in my possession. Two years ago in preparation of doing this engine swap, I came across an engine transmission combo that had apparently been pulled from a 71 Dart that had been wrecked sometime in the early 1980s the engine reportedly had less than 20,000 miles when pulled. However it has likely not been run in 30+ years. If a slant 6 museum existed, I would donate this Engine as it is beautiful and stock It has all accessories including the air-conditioning compressor. I realize that looks mean nothing to internal engine health however the overall appearance of this engine looks like it was just built by Mopar

I am very hesitant to install this engine without having it completely gone over, cleaned, rebuilt and resealed.

Would it be wise to install an engine that has not run in that length of time and expect good results? My fear is that it needs a complete reseal, not to mention any rust that formed inside the engine over the years.

ID Stamp GW225 3548


I realize that there may not be a correct answer for what I am asking, I am just curious what folks thoughts are.

Thanks

Personally, if option two was a running engine when you got it, I would not hesitate to use it. I got my 65 Belvedere after it had been sitting for a very long time, likely 30+ years. It started up with a battery and some gas. I changed the oil and drove it like that for a few years. It never missed a beat.
FYI, option one sounds like a nice deal. It has been listed for a while now and you likely could get the price lower if you haggle.
jus sayin...

_________________
-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

The craigslist engine seems like any easier swap and a good deal—provided it’s not junk. The seller just doesn’t want it. The super six is an added benefit. It’s possible it was already gone though if someone took the time to try and change the color.

I assume the 71 engine was running when pulled. My concern is that it had sat for so long with being run or turned at all. I doubt it has run since the early 80s.
With how old all of this stuff is, does it just make more sense to install something remachined / resealed / rebuilt?

How/where has The engine that had been pulled in the 80s, been stored? Inside? Covered? Outside? In or out of the weather? I too have used engines before for swaps that had been sitting a Long time since last used, if it isn't"stuck" and the story behind it is known for being reliable, I'd replace all gaskets maybe except for the head gasket, maybe the freeze plugs (and flush with the garden hose while those were out) put it in and go.

The engine was stored dry inside, covered on a pallet. Outward appearance is original and perfect. The person who pulled it is dead. His Son was cleaning stuff out. All he knew was that it was pulled from an under 20k 1971 Dart. You can see this thing has never been messed with. It’s very original. No signs of moisture at all. Not even dusty.

How far would you go with the seals? Intake, pan, timing cover, rear main?

The dipstick shows oil but it looks a little sludgy.

oils of that day werent as "good" as now a days. add sitting for years, and there you have it.... Id do a couple of oil changes starting "now" (you'd have the pan off for reseal anyways) and maybe 1000-1500 miles in and again at same interval, then go to whatever regular miles you change oil at... for me, that's every 4k miles. maybe overkill, but oil is cheap and I use conventional.....
other than pan, timing chain cover, valve cover and possibly manifold gaskets, I'd get an air adapter and do valve guide seals too.... maybe freeze plugs , put it in with new tuneup parts and let er rip.
judging by the whereabouts of the CL post, You're in PA somewhere? Too far away for any competition from me on that one, haha.....
Whether you did option 1 or 2 I'd do the reseal deal before I put it into your car.

I may go take a look at the Craigs List one...just because it really is a good deal and its close---especially sporting the 2bbl intake/carb.

If it is evident that it has been recently rebuilt, I may go that route as it would be easier. Reseal it, put it in and be done.

If I use the one I have (option 2), I am inclined to open it all up, have a better cam put in, have new rings, hardened valve seats, the works done to it so I know its is done and perfect. I have a 2bbl intake to put on as well.

But that begs the question(not that it matters), could I have just rebuilt engine that is currently in the car? Or with the crank walking as much as it is, did it destroy the block?

Showing my ignorance, what would cause a thrust bearing to let go as bad as this one? (See video in original post)

How long could something run like this and what does the end look like? Every time I get the RPMs up, I am waiting for it to blow apart. Also seems to loose power when it gets warm--yet no smoke and no real knock.

thanks

Drop in the one that you have, tear apart the one that you pull out and see if you can see why it has an issue. Probably just thrust bearing and maybe a crank won't know till it's apart