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Engine removal - tricky fasteners
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Author:  rich006 [ Sat Feb 29, 2020 10:56 am ]
Post subject:  Engine removal - tricky fasteners
I pulled my engine today (first time I've done it). So far I've found two fasteners that were particularly tricky to get to. I managed to get them both off but I'm not sure how I'll get them back on when the time comes.

Tips welcome! :-)

1. The manifold stud nut that is under the choke well. I got it off with a socket on a swivel but it seems like it will be a bear to get started back on.

2. The top right bell housing bolt between the transmission dipstick and the firewall. I can (barely) reach a socket in there but I can't get my hand in. Again, I'll be able to tighten it once it's started but how to get it started? In the picture you can't really see the bolt but the green arrow shows where it is.
Image
Author:  GregCon [ Sat Feb 29, 2020 11:32 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine removal - tricky fasteners
The easy way to get the trans-engine bolt out is to use a ratchet with a long extension, an impact flex socket and be under the car with the rear crossmember removed and the tail of the trans hanging down a bit. But it can also be done from above with more difficulty and the right wrench.
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Sat Feb 29, 2020 12:54 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine removal - tricky fasteners
Quote:
The top right bell housing bolt between the transmission dipstick and the firewall. I can (barely) reach a socket in there but I can't get my hand in. Again, I'll be able to tighten it once it's started but how to get it started? In the picture you can't really see the bolt but the green arrow shows where it is.
Yep, long extension and a wobbly from the passenger side near the transmission is he key here if not removing the transmission. If you have smaller hands you can get that or tighten with a long combination wrench...but don't advise this.
Quote:
The manifold stud nut that is under the choke well. I got it off with a socket on a swivel but it seems like it will be a bear to get started back on.
Should have done a search for this, Doc left a couple of nuggets a decade back...

-Use a 1/4" drive ratchet and socket, and use a long extension for this installation (the nuts are going back on with a torque value that won't ever need a 3/8" ratchet...)

-If you are pulling the manifold stack...flip it over, you will find that this generation intake manifold has a hump or bulge in that location making that single bolt
ugly to get to...take a die grinder and burr and grind that hump out until you can get the socket in there. If separating the stack, you can use an angle grinder and
aggressive disk to scrub it down.

Sounds like you are having fun so far, keep up the hard work!
Author:  sixinthehead [ Sat Feb 29, 2020 6:16 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine removal - tricky fasteners
I have successfully employed a length of coat hanger to let the manifold washer and nut slide into position on the stud and hold it there while I start it with the one finger with which I can just...barely...reach it.
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sun Mar 01, 2020 3:52 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine removal - tricky fasteners
For me the key to eliminate frustration in almost all fasteners is to clean them, clean the hole or stud and lubricate them. Then they can be run almost all the way in by hand. Coming apart next time will be easier also. :D
Author:  wjajr [ Sat Mar 21, 2020 8:06 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine removal - tricky fasteners
I have employed somewhat the same method as Dan except with a small flat tip long shaft screwdriver. it is easier to hang onto and control pressure when up to the stud when the fat fingers dial on the washer and then nut.

Clean or better yet replace old studs with new. Blue thread locker for end the threads into head as they may contact water jacket, and manifold end of stud dob with copper anti-seize, and use brass nuts to secure factory washers. With new fasteners a consistent toque to each fastener can be easily achieved which in important for even expansion & contraction of manifolds during heat cycles. Next time those manifolds will come from head with ease, and studs won't weep coolant.
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