Hi all,

I am planning on mating my 4 speed up to my slant 6 and wondered if there was a non evasive way of ensuring the trasmission was functional. What I have done is spin the input shaft (where the rod goes into the transmission from the engine) while shifting the gears. They turn without much effort and no "odd" sounds. Reverse spins the opposite way as it should. Any reason why I shouldn't just toss it on the engine? Do I need to take the side plate off?

Sincerely,

Paul Barrow

Do you know anything about the trans?
I would at the least, drain the gear oil and look at what comes out.
If it looks clean and there is little brass, you could refill and run it.
The shift fork O-rings go bad and leak, easy to change, except reverse.
Is the outside clean or oily?
Output shaft seal is easy to change now also.
Taking the cover off won't tell you much.

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Hyper_pak

Hyper Pak,

I literally pulled it out of a field in Tucson, so no telling how long it had been there. That said, it cleaned up pretty well with a wire wheel. When I tilted it backwards some gold colored oil drained out, but I have not pulled the plug yet. I will try that tomorrow.

Paul

And what are the shift forks? Are those the brass things on the inside that are sort of C shaped?

Paul

At this point, having the factory manual will be very helpful as we cannot help coach you through an A-833 rebuild as it's pictures and
hands on. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1978-Chrysler- ... SwDHZeIfnA

As stated unless you know what to look for opening it up won't be helpful unless looking at metal particles in the bottom of the tranny body...
It would be easier if in a running vehicle so you can put it under load and see if it whines (bearings), shifts rough (synchros)...

Thanks for the link DusterIdiot, I will order that and get it in in a few days. I bought another book someone suggested on here and while it had a lot of really good information, it was a little higher level than I needed.

Paul

Which other book did you get?

This one also is a good read if going DIY for a rebuild.

https://www.amazon.com/Chrysler-833-Tra ... 732&sr=8-1

That was the one DusterIdiot. I found it has a lot of good little detail info, but for example, when I was trying to figure out which tab went to what gears I couldn't find it in there. I needed more basic info. I think with the manual you suggested it will be an excellent addition.

Another question, I have the 122 tooth 9.5 inch flywheel. Do I need the 10 inch clutch? That looks like the smallest one on Rock Auto. I am specifically looking at the LUK one.

Sincerely,

Paul Barrow

I have drained the oil out of the transmission and while very low looked pretty clean, a light gold color. I did not observe any metal shavings nor did I see any chunks through the drain hole. Based on that and its clean shifting out of the vehicle I am going to roll the dice and not open it up. I am reading through my manual and it recommends to use Dexron automatic (yes automatic) transmission fluid. It also says if you hear noises you can use SAE 90 or 140 gear oil. What is best in your guys experience? Also, does anyone have the torque specs for the drain plugs? They aren't included in my Chilton's manual.

Sincerely,

Paul

I like Red Line synthetic and their MT-90, MT-85 or even MTL (SAE 80) will do much better than ATF for protection and shift better than common GL-5 oils. If super cold weather operation isn't much of a consideration I'd use MT-90.

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Joshua

The brass rings have to stop on the gears to line up teeth. If your box grinds with syn, you might try ATF or a gear oil before working on it.
I had a 74 van that had ATF from Dodge, shifted fine.

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Hyper_pak

Awesome, thanks guys. I'm going to wait to fill it until after I install it into the frame. Going to try not to dump a bunch of oil out the back.

Paul