Hi folks,

A long story . . .

I’m still having a bear getting my 1966 Dodge Dart GT 225 started. Wife is wondering how much more money I'm going to spend, LOL.

A bit of history “apparently” this car was in a barn since around 1985, it was missing a number of engine parts that I have replaced with current day parts, original carb rebuilt by me, new alternator, battery, points, condenser, cap, rotor.

The engine was not locked (I poured Marvel Mystery oil into cylinders) and it can be turned by hand, however the starter seems to turn slower than I would have thought. Please see video at this link. Does this speed seem normal for a slant six?

Turning over - https://youtu.be/0obd9hfg5bQ

Also, I do have spark, but not the sharp blue spark I remember when I used to have older cars back in the 70s and 80s. Please see video coil spark, and spark plug spark.

coil spark - https://youtu.be/hE8yS3VZeik

spark spark - https://youtu.be/3Tncke0V3NY

I’m really starting to think there is an ignition issue. I marked the distributer and removed it because I could not get the old condenser screw to come off, I did manage to get the screw out and replaced and gapped the points.

I inserted the distributer as it was marked with the #1 cylinder at TDC first try getting it to run, I had no luck, only once it seemed close to igniting but it backfired through the carb.

I have some doubts the new parts I have (from NAPA, and Pep boys) are good replacement choices. In regards to the distributer cap it’s keyed, (see photo) but there’s no key on the distributer body, so I could technically install it 180 degrees in any direction. The cap doesn’t feel like it’s 100 percent stable on the distributer too. There’s also a rubber cap on a post near one of the spark plug wire towers, not sure what the function of that is. (see picture 2) The cap is a Standard T Series part number CH303T.

Any ideas what could be wrong? I’m leaning toward a bad or wrong cap. Or perhaps it’s not turning over fast enough to ignite? I’m also thinking of replacing the starter and I’m getting new plugs, I was playing it cheap and only cleaned and gapped the old plugs. Any advice appreciated and thanks in advanced for any suggestions.

It looks to me, that your ignition system is working well enough to get the engine to run. Backfiring through the carb suggests you have some fuel getting in, and enough spark to make something happen. Usually a backfire through the carb is ether a lean condition, or the timing might be 180* off....

I would first confirm that you have a good accelerator pump shot when you open the throttle by hand, looking down the throat of the carburetor. A couple of squirts should be enough to get it to cough/fire.

If that is the case, move on to ignition timing. If you have someone to crank the engine for you, loosen the distributor hold down bolt and adjust distributor while cranking engine.

If that fails, I would re-visit your efforts to time the engine. Confirm that you have the points closing, and rotor pointing to the #1 spark plug wire on the compression stroke...

Basically with spark like you appear to have, it would seem to me that it is ether a fuel issue, or time of spark issue. It sounds to me like you have enough starter speed to get something to happen, and enough compression also... Keep the faith, and ask more questions as needed.

I agree with the rotor possibly being 180º out.
Pull the plug from #1 and rotated by hand until you feel air compressing. Then you know it's on the compression stroke.
Keep turning until the TDC markings on the damper and timing tab line up.
As far as the alignment tab on the distributor it is on the vacuum advance as seen here.

The cruel irony is that replacing the entire engine would still cost less than replacing the wife.....

Thanks guys, appreciate the help. Oh BTW the cap part number is Standard T Series CH410T other part number was the rotor.

If you want to see better if you are not 180 out you can remove the valve cover and see the behavior of valves in #1 with engine rotation... Also might give you a very rough idea if the timing ring slipped in the damper. After, check TDC (removing spark plug 1 and rotating to find top (you can use a TDC locator (i.e.

https://www.amazon.com/Competition-Cams ... 2GR8VECE32

)), and checking with damper timing mark)

I guess jumped chain tooth is an option, you want to check many things before going that path (just to avoid wasting time and finding is "something else")

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I agree with Jase, your starter speed is about normal (thought maybe a teeny bit slow - check your battery charge) and your spark looks good enough to fire. I also agree that it's probably a timing issue. In addition to the above advice, make sure when the #1 piston is at TDC that the rotor is pointing at the #1 tower. Then check to make sure all the plug wires are installed in the right order, and are going to the right plug. Don't ask me how I know about that one please...

Then check your initial timing, it should be somewhere between 5-10 degrees BTDC. Those steps with fuel and it should light off.

It would be a good idea to check your valve lash too. It is supposed to be set hot and running, but you can do it cold to get close enough to dial it in later when hot. Set it for .012 cold on intakes, .022 cold on exhaust.

First a message to your wife.... You're going to spend a fair amount of money. Not all at once. Not gonna go broke or lose the house. And it will be worth it. Car payments like brake shoes and fluid, bulbs, tires, oil and filters, all the normal stuff.

The fact that the car was in a barn (usually- "ran when parked" ) might be a clue. Were there running problems, and that is why it was put aside?

So assume nothing. Check everything. I would intercept the fuel line ahead of the fuel pump and run off a can of fresh fuel. Test the fuel pump. Does it pump fuel out of the can, through the pump, and back into the can?

Test compression in all 6 cylinders. Without compression- you haven't got an engine. While you have all spark plugs out, you can check TDC on number 1 and compare to timing marks, and verify distributor installation. Improper point gap can affect timing.

Check the valve lash. Often overlooked and importance cannot be overstated.

You can and will get this. It is a machine. Keep trying things and asking questions. And please keep posting results.

I will and thanks, everyone, I have some things to try.

jayman if your wife is anything like mine the issue seems to be this" If you want or need something there never is enough money, if she wants or need something money is never a problem"

I decided to buy a new distributor, i took it out and it seems a bit tight, when trying to actuate the vacume advance mechanism, plus it had no cap on it for at least 30 years so im sure its not in the best condition. More to come.

I bought an NOS distributor that was ~35-40 years old recently as well. It was a bit stiff to spin when I got it too, put it in and seems no worse for wear.

Put in new distributer and plugs, worked on it a while last night and it sounds like it wants to catch but did not fire up. I'm getting closer. I'm going to work on it more this weekend, recheck everything is gapped properly and do the valves.

Incidentally anyone have a "trick" to engage the cap clip near the oil filter. I cant for the life of me (weak fingers?) to get it to clip on without taking the distro out.

I'll keep you posted.

Use a long flat blade screwdriver... possibly pry against filter to get the spring clip onto the cap.


Greg

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Thanks Greg I'll give that a try, your car is awesome by the way.