The Hooptie mill runs OEM 198 rods, with the small end lightened up, a lot. They had a resize and a diet of flash/tubbiness removal. Drag raced it from 2007 to 2018 with no Rod or Crank related issues. I can't remember the weight, but it was considerably lighter assembled than even the OEM 225 rods and pistons. Recall that I've got those Metric .045" over 3.445" Toyota Hypereutectic's dangling out there. Lite. The metric rings are challenged by the long stroke, so I experience ring flutter.
I don't think the rods are going to be your limiting factor. The biggest issue I have with the Hooptie is the soft launch. I've rarely drop below a 2.1x second 60'. It makes plenty of beans, but it won't leave the line. That's all on the converter. When I transfer Hooptie bits into the '63 GT, I'm going to spring for a converter, 'cause the one I've got isn't doing me any favors.
I've got a set of bottom loading 7.005" Aluminum rods someplace in my stuff, along with a set of Molnar 7.005's/Forged. The bottom loading R&R's need creative machine work of the block/bores to install. If your set on your path to the cast crank, when I have my girdle off, I'll get some measurements for you. It's pretty simple, so you can likely make one up yourself pretty easily. It spans the 2nd and 3rd caps, as the forward and aft sections on Mains 1 & 4 didn't allow for an oil pan. Someday I'll build a full girdle that fits all four.
If I were to do it again, based on the Unobtainium properties of 198 rods these days, I'd go Molnar or R&R top loaders in Aluminum. My next build may use the Titanium 7.400's I commissioned. Those are Forged thickness, and I wouldn't want to tear up the tooling to cut them down to fit a cast crank. The guy that built them for me said, "Never again."
The only failure potential I saw after the original build was the Machine shop that assembled the long block didn't take into account where the throws put the big ends in proximity to the pan rail. When I tore it down to repair the head, I checked to find out why the engine was detonating on pump Premium. I had ~0.010" to the lip of the block clearing one of the rod nuts. (4.475" Stroke.) That was with the ARP rod fasteners, which had smaller 12 point nuts.You bet I gave it some more room! The stroke was supposed to be 4.440", which is why my fuel calc's were off. A pretty big error. There were more errors made, but I moved my machine work to another shop, and have been with them ever since.
I have another set of 198 rods upon which I started the "Lightening" work, If you ever do suffer a failure, let me know, and perhaps we can work something out. I also still have the 210 build stuff I purchased from you some time back. After a long chat about extracting power from low deck engines with Mike Jeffery, I cooled off on that build. Mike was helping Wayne with "Waynes World." Still might do it, just because a 170 or 210 wielded in anger sounds so wicked!
CJ
