So far, here's where we are at:
With the battery installed, we tried to turn over the engine. The starter would engage for a partial rev and then grind. Or it would just grind. We pulled the starter (it was the original-style big body form). The teeth on the starter were rounded and several teeth on the torque converter were chipped. We decided to replace the starter with a mini-style and see if we could use the torque converter as-is (for now, at least). The new starter was installed and the engine would turn over without issue. I should note that the previous owner knew very little about the car and was selling it for his mother in-law, whose husband had purchased it new in 1974. He did mention that he couldn't get it running and that it might have "skipped a tooth". Here is Roma installing the new starter. Note that she's a bit camera shy 
We also checked the plugs. They were all very black. No signs of oil. However, when I looked up the part number (Autolite 25), these did not appear to be the correct size for this engine. We bought some Champion 7322's.
While pulling the plugs, we saw that the plug tube gaskets were shot. New ones were ordered.
After buying a new radiator cap to replace the existing broken one, we performed a pressure test on the coolant system and ended up with sticky green shoes for the effort. We tightened several hose clamps, but it looks like the water pump weep hole is leaking and the gasket is shot. A new pump, pump gasket, thermostat, and t-stat gasket were ordered. Eventually, when the engine is running and up to temperature, we will run a few cycles of coolant flush to de-corrode the system. We loosened the fan shroud and removed the fan yesterday. The thermostat was pulled and the water pump was pulled. A lot of pitting in the t-stat housing, engine block, and head was observed. We wire-brushed all surfaces to remove the gobs of red RTV and the old paper gaskets. Hopefully, we will get the new pump and t-stat installed today (although we may wait on the t-stat until after the flush is done). I'm doubting that the gasket will be enough to seal the pitting, so I may have to go back with gasket+RTV, which I hate doing. What RTV do people like?
When we removed the old voltage regulator, we saw that one end of the wire ended in a loose connector and the other wire went into a taped loom. Does anyone know where the connector end goes to?
Several vacuum lines were plugged or left disconnected, so I will have to see where they go back to. While investigating the carb fittings, I found that the choke linkage and vacuum kickdown were off or loose. I also found that the top butterfly was outright missing. The shaft was present but the plate and screws were gone. I believe that this is the choke butterfly, right? Anyone know where I can get a new one?
We also found that the engine mounts were completely disintegrated. New ones were ordered.
We sampled the trans fluid through the dipstick and sent it off to Blackstone Labs for analysis. I normally send all of my fluids off to them. The ATF looked reddish, and not burnt, so that's a good sign, but I'll let the Lab say for sure.
We did an oil change yesterday. As with the ATF, I took a sample for analysis. The oil looked dark. No off-smell nor any chocolate milk color, so that looks promising.
Today we plan to install the new water pump. While we are there, we will pull the timing cover and see what that looks like. And since we already have half of the accessories out of the way, we'll change the engine mounts, too. If we have time, and I go get a compression test kit, we will do a cylinder compression test, too.
Still to-do:
Replace water pump
Pull timing cover & check timing chain/gears
Compression test
Change plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil. New gaskets for plug tubes, too
Motor (& trans) mounts
Coolant flush (remove corrosion)
ATF change
Check brakes, flush brake fluid
Fix carb
Fix lights & wiring
Lube chassis
Check suspension
Check u-joints & diff
Test alternator
Fix HVAC
Test (fix leak? power steering
Check valve lash
Check ignition timing
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