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New to me. Rebuild questions and Marine use, oil pans, windage trays and crank scrapers
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=65824
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Author:  southernfarm [ Sun Mar 07, 2021 3:21 pm ]
Post subject:  New to me. Rebuild questions and Marine use, oil pans, windage trays and crank scrapers

Hello all, First post, but love the forum. My first /6, and the reason for me to be here, is in my 24foot 1966 Lonestar Cruiseliner boat. The motor, I think has very low hours on it, however don't know if the hour meter was original or not. Anyway, I am about to embark on a rebuild. I have rebuilt 2 engines in the past, but not for performance or anything. Just daily driver.

Number on the block: 2806830-7 also to right of that, 0854 and BH
Any data you can provide on this decode would be nice.

It is a forward rotation (firing order goes in the right order on distributor) When I did have it running for a bit, I didn't pay attention of its crank rotation but pretty sure its standard forward rotation.

The previous owner, who died and this boat was put on auction, did a valve job herself (in her 60's!). From her writings she was not even a novice rebuilder, just willing to go for it. I question her skills, but not because she was a woman, but because of things I found in the work done. All I know for sure is she replaced the valve seals. Not sure about anything else or even the status of the valves. The reason for her valve job, was she did a compression test. (I found this info on a boat forum she posted on). So in 2011 the test: 125-120-90-128-63-107. Fast forward to last year, 9 years later, I measured: 90-100-60-90-45-95. Obviously the bottom end was never touched, and things got worse.

The oil pan looks stock Valiant type with sump in middle.

When I look at the boat, in what would be floating without anything in it, the motor has a tilt down to the rear by 2.5 degrees from level. With #5 being so poor in compression, and considering this is a boat, with A LOT of tilt up when in the water and moving with occupants, I am wondering if I need to get a windage tray and crank scraper? Here is the thing though, I am thinking even a windage tray won't help because that oil is going to be constantly in the rear of the pan, and constantly in contact with the crank. I am now thinking of getting a rear sump oil pan (and pickup tube) from Dodge D150, then the oil will sit in the place where it normally wants to sit.
What is the depth (or height) of the rear sump oil pan compared to the mid sump pan? I am looking a clearances. If someone could measure their rear sump oil pan and give me the height (or depth) of the pan from the rear pan gasket surface to bottom of the sump, that would be great. I have a boat rib that might give me trouble depending on how deep it is.

Now going back to the rebuild. Gonna be doing a complete tear down, measure everything, replace what is necessary. I am hoping that the poor compression is because of stuck rings. The only other hints I have is that the motor did experience an overheat of 240 degrees at some point due to external water pump (boat) failure. She also did an electronic ignition conversion in the distributor cap.

This motor is realistically under powered for this boat, so if I can get a bit more HP without added $ in the process I will do it during the rebuild. That is why I am thinking an oil pan swap and/or windage tray. Also consider decking the block a bit, especially if I have to overbore the cylinders.

Enough of my rambling. Please would like to hear from you all here.

Author:  Jase [ Sun Mar 07, 2021 5:44 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: New to me. Rebuild questions and Marine use, oil pans, windage trays and crank scrapers

A quick measure with my head stuck over the front wheel comes up with 10" on the drivers side, from the bottom of the oil pan to the pan rail. NOT 100% confident in that number, as the exhaust, the frame, and splash panel were obstructing my view.. Later this week I can take a measurement from below.

Sounds like a fun project. What boat is this in?

Author:  southernfarm [ Sun Mar 07, 2021 6:40 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: New to me. Rebuild questions and Marine use, oil pans, windage trays and crank scrapers

Quote:
A quick measure with my head stuck over the front wheel comes up with 10" on the drivers side, from the bottom of the oil pan to the pan rail. NOT 100% confident in that number, as the exhaust, the frame, and splash panel were obstructing my view.. Later this week I can take a measurement from below.

Sounds like a fun project. What boat is this in?
1966 Lonestar Cruiseliner 3 ---24 foot aluminum cabin cruiser.

Here is a sale post the previous owner tried to sell before she passed away.
http://www.portcarlingboats.com/tag/alu ... -for-sale/

Author:  Doctor Dodge [ Sun Mar 07, 2021 8:56 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: New to me. Rebuild questions and Marine use, oil pans, windage trays and crank scrapers

This book will help the rebuild process.

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=62740

As for the oil pan, I would measure the space in the boat's hull and then customize a pan and pick-up tube to get as much depth and volume as possible.
Try to lower the oil level in the sump to get the oil away from the crank.
DD

Author:  southernfarm [ Sun Mar 07, 2021 10:54 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: New to me. Rebuild questions and Marine use, oil pans, windage trays and crank scrapers

Thanks DD.

I will get that book. I do have an old Chilton manual that my Dad had that gives me the basics.
I am not confident in my fabrication ability for the pan and pickup. I am willing to give it a try. I did think about just cutting out the rear section of the pan, and dropping it, making one large sump area from mid to rear, and extending the tube to the back. Then put a baffle over the entire area to prevent the sloshing of oil coming up. Not quite a windage tray. That is why I thought the D150 may be a good option.


Quote:
This book will help the rebuild process.

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=62740

As for the oil pan, I would measure the space in the boat's hull and then customize a pan and pick-up tube to get as much depth and volume as possible.
Try to lower the oil level in the sump to get the oil away from the crank.
DD

Author:  Doctor Dodge [ Mon Mar 08, 2021 8:50 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: New to me. Rebuild questions and Marine use, oil pans, windage trays and crank scrapers

Don't be afraid to modify a pan and pick-up, even if you have to take it to someone to help with modifications / welding.
The last special oil pan I made used a sump cut-out of a second oil pan that was trimmed and welded right onto the original pan.
A large drill and a hole saw made a number of holes leading into the added sump area.
DD

Author:  cpslntdchrg [ Tue Mar 09, 2021 12:49 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: New to me. Rebuild questions and Marine use, oil pans, windage trays and crank scrapers

I understand this is an old engine, with some work done in the head you cannot check. But I will recommend you first checking valve lash and then measuring compression again. I'm not sure if you already did it, not clear from your previous posts. This is a mechanical lifter engine, valves need to be lashed every now and then. I would do it and try, Just to be sure were your baseline is.

my 2 cents...

Author:  southernfarm [ Tue Mar 09, 2021 8:47 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: New to me. Rebuild questions and Marine use, oil pans, windage trays and crank scrapers

Valve lash was also a problem. One cylinder, and now I can't remember if it was intake or exhaust, but the lash was 1/4inch gap on #2 or 3. Probably #3 looking at the compression numbers. I did a blow by test and found air rapidly leaking into oil pan, but also was heard on intakes. Compression did increase with a bit of oil in the cylinders, but honestly I didn't do much detailed checking or notes when. I found the poor compression and all that blow by. I know the motor needed to be rebuilt and no point in trying to diagnose any further. My leak down test I couldn't do properly cause I was using portable compressor and didn't have the volume needed cause it was leaking out as fast as I could put it in. Also to note, the rocker arm bolts were also mixed up and the center spreader washer was at #1 location. And rockers were not centered on valves. So many things not done right, best to take apart and start over, but this time do the long block rebuild.

Quote:
I understand this is an old engine, with some work done in the head you cannot check. But I will recommend you first checking valve lash and then measuring compression again. I'm not sure if you already did it, not clear from your previous posts. This is a mechanical lifter engine, valves need to be lashed every now and then. I would do it and try, Just to be sure were your baseline is.

my 2 cents...

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