Any slant sixers going on the Power Tour? I'd be interested in exchanging numbers via Private Message in case anyone wants to caravan or in case we need to help each other out during the tour. I'm planning on doing the whole thing. I'm based in the Detroit area.

Also, if there are people who live near the tour route and who would be open to being contacted in case extra assistance is needed, that would be helpful as well.

Thanks in advance!

Shaun

I have always considered it.

Didn't the 2021 tour already happen?

Seems late in the summer.. but maybe I am out of touch with the hod rod schedule.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Yes, it's later than usual. Usually, it's in June. Last year, it was delayed until August and eventually cancelled. This year, they kept the August timing.

KICKOFF / Day 1: Monday, Aug. 23 - Summit Motorsports Park in Norwalk, OH
Day 2: Tuesday, Aug. 24 - Montgomery County Fairgrounds, Dayton, OH
Day 3: Wednesday, Aug. 25 - Lucas Oil Raceway, Indianapolis, IN
Day 4: Thursday, Aug. 26 - World Wide Technology Raceway, St. Louis, MO
Day 5: Friday, Aug. 27 - State Farm Center, Champaign, IL

https://www.motortrend.com/events/hot-rod-power-tour/

Okay, thanks for the update.

That is actually reasonably close to me this time around.. but I will not make it due to other commitments.
It's Mostly highway / Interstates from the Big Meetup venues correct?

Have a good Tour!


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

They use a combo of interstates, state roads and US roads like US 30, (former) US66,etc I did the whole thing in 09 and the 1st 1/2 of it in '10, and a stop here and there in years since when their stop is relatively close to here. Entry fee is 2x what it was then, but back then if you were gonna do more than 2 stops it worked out to be cheaper than the daily rate to register for the long haul. You can come and visit daily (or you could then) just not eligible for the door prizes and such (of which there were a BUNCH) That 1st year we were undecided at one point whether we wanted to do the whole thing, us winning a $100 shell gas card the 3rd day of the tour helped convince us to stay with it all week.

It's definitely an experience, is like to do it again some day, not this year though. My son and I were all ready to do it last year (had vacation time in and ok'd even) when they moved it to august/ until they pulled the plug completely. We ended up cancelling the time off and working. We may go check out the last day this year, there is a huge farm show not very far from the last stop going on, at the same time/ that I want to go to. Might do a day of each.
I could tell you guys lots about the experience.

My green Dart is in the third photo down, in the background of the yellow Camaro.
https://www.motortrend.com/features/day ... tour-2021/

The car made it the whole way, although I think I bent/burnt a valve on the way back to Detroit. A compression test is in my future.

FYI, 3.21 gears and 24" diameter tires are not a recipe for fuel economy. I think I got about 15 mpg.

Congrats! Try adjusting your valves and see if it was some valve recession. Glad you enjoyed the drive.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I also made this the lead photo here:
https://www.motortrend.com/features/cla ... tour-2021/

Unfortunately, my engine issues were due to broken rings in cylinder 5. Both rings were broken, leading to poor compression (47 psi). Another cylinder had one broken ring, but still had decent compression (135 psi). The third cylinder I checked so far has no broken rings and had the best compression (145-150 psi). Of the remaining cylinders, one or two were at 135 and one or two were at 145-150, so I would not be surprised to see another broken ring or two. I am in the process of ridge reaming, honing, and re-ringing (in-vehicle).

What are your thoughts on what caused the broken piston rings
Was the engine running a lot of ignition timing and it got into pre ignition?
Or did all the highway driving get the motor hot and cause the gap ends to butt?

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

If anything, it may be because the engine runs a bit hot. At modern highway speeds of 70+ mph, plus the hot weather, the temp gauge pretty much sits on "H." I previously tried flushing the engine/radiator, but it made no difference. I think the stock size radiator is just not enough for the aerodynamic drag of these vehicles at high speed. At lower speeds of 55-60 mph, the temp gauge quickly drops to the thermostat opening temperature. I will likely upgrade the radiator from the current 2-row 19 inch core to a 3-row 22 inch one.

Changing out the radiator seems like a good plan.
I enjoyed reading your post on doing the Power Tour.

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

I recently Took a bunch of core Engines apart.

Every one had At least one Broken top ring in it .

I wondered what caused that to happen ?


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Greg, did you completely remove the ridge and carbon build up at the top of the bore?
If not the rings may have gotten pinched and broke when the pistons were extracted.
The oe piston rings in slant sixes are cast iron, and will easily break if twisted.
If the breaks occurred when the pistons were removed the broken edges should be clear of carbon.

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

For the first cylinder, which was cylinder 5 (the one with 47 psi compression), I didn't remove the ridge first, but I was able to remove the piston without too much difficulty -- probably because the rings were already broken. Also, the place where the rings were broken were already black from having run for several hours (or more) in that condition. I took a piece of the ring and broke it by hand, and the break was nice and clean, so I'm sure the rings didn't break from removing the piston.

Furthermore, in addition to doing a compression check before disassembling the engine, once I removed the head, I did a leakdown test on each cylinder using a homemade tool. The air leaked out of cylinder 5 much more quickly than the other cylinders. Once I replaced the rings in cylinder 5, the leakdown rate was typical of the other cylinders.

For the remaining cylinders, where both rings were not broken, I couldn't get the pistons out without removing the ridge first, so that's what I'm doing for those cylinders.