Usually you run the engine til she's hot, the manual will tell you hat RPM to tune the engine down to for the adjustment. put a piece of cardboard under the passenger side of the engine bay, pull the valve cover. The spec for a stock slant six is .010 intake, and .020 exhaust. Pull out the feeler guages and a ratchet with a 3/8" socket, you want to run the feeler gauge through where the rocker arm meets the the valve stem tip. If your lash is correct you should be able the drag the gauge through the bumping rocker and and stem with some resistance, but it shouldn't be too difficult or very loose (like pushing a hot knife through butter just pulled from the fridge). If too loose tighten slightly until you get the desired drag, if too tight, loosen a smidge till it's too loose, then slowly 'creep' up on your adjustment. I go through and check ll my intakes at one time and all my exhausts so I don't accidentally put the wrong gauge under the wrong rocker (good habit to do...)....
My friend uses a second method for the 'tricky' person (get good at the above method before trying this one). Get the engine hot, shut it off, pull the valve cover, set engine to TDC, lash is set while the pushrod and lifter assembly is sitting on the 'base circle' of the cam (the backside, opposite of the lobes). The six has 'opposing' cylinder groups, 153 is your first group, so 624 is the opposing group, so if #1 is in 'split overlap' (lifter between the two lobes on the cam), the 'opposing' cylinder #6 should be on the 'base circle' and ready to lash without the engine all bumping around. Using your crank bolt and 1 1/8" wrench, you can roll the engine over manually to go through the next set #5 coming up, and #2 ready to lash, then #3 so #4 gets lashed, then back down to #4 so #3 gets lashed, #2 on the base circle, so #5 gets lashed, and finally look at #6 and be ready to lash #1 when the intake closes....
someone, may have a better description of this method, it nice since you can set everything without the engine bumping along, the lifters making the ratchet bounce like a pogo stick, and you can roll the crank over to the cylinders you need to adjust, and your feeler gauges don't get dinged to peices....
Since this is your first time use the 'standard method' it's sure fire, and a good experience, when you get more experience playing with adjustments try out #2.
let us know how you make out, also check your oil after you seal it up you shouldn't lose anymore than a cupful to the cardboard on the floor.
-D.Idiot
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