I'm just getting started with a pretty exotic (and long-term) slant build - and the first order of business is getting the 170 crank I have into a good 225 block (which I think I have - it's getting checked at the machine shop currently).

My question is on main bearing dimensions - I've seen a few places mention that 440 main caps can fit on a slant, but I've looked all over and can't seem to find the bearing dimensions. Can anyone confirm if 440 caps and/or bearings will fit a forged crank slant six? I know I'll need to line bore/hone to fit, but I was going to do that anyways, so that's fine.

The reason I ask is because there are aluminum 440 aftermarket caps available, but nothing I've found for a slant, and for my specific application those would be desirable. Oh, and yes, I know I'm crazy doing this. But this is as much an experiment as it is a race build, so I'm fine doing some things that haven't ever been done before, and with only marginal potential benefits . . .

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1963 D100: 3-on-the-tree, 3.50 rear, mostly original, stainless bore clutch slave & brake master, rebuilt speedo, original rebuilt carb.

1961 D200: crew cab short bed, sold.

1965 D500 Crew Cab, planning a 6V92 swap and 6x6 conversion.

I believe all are the same except for the thrust bearing cap. The 440 one would need slight modification to work with the slant.

I believe Ceej Has done this cap swap on one of his builds!


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Thanks! I just sent him a PM (I think, it's showing in my outbox but not in sent).

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1963 D100: 3-on-the-tree, 3.50 rear, mostly original, stainless bore clutch slave & brake master, rebuilt speedo, original rebuilt carb.

1961 D200: crew cab short bed, sold.

1965 D500 Crew Cab, planning a 6V92 swap and 6x6 conversion.

Please state why you are going to put a 170 crank into a 225 block.
PS: Big block aftermarket billet caps can be used on a forged crank slant block, with the proper machining.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Good to know, that confirms what I was seeing.
And because . . . reasons.

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1963 D100: 3-on-the-tree, 3.50 rear, mostly original, stainless bore clutch slave & brake master, rebuilt speedo, original rebuilt carb.

1961 D200: crew cab short bed, sold.

1965 D500 Crew Cab, planning a 6V92 swap and 6x6 conversion.

3 reasons: 1) So you can have a 170 that weighs 50# more than stock. 2) So you can run 8" long connecting rods. 3) So you can build and engine with 75 HP less than a 225. All valid reasons!

Just teasing! We all in the Slant 6 crowd are a little crazy. We all march to the beat of a different drum, so enjoy your build and share with us what it is when your ready!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Thanks for sharing your build with us.
Can you tell me the reason for the aluminum main bearing caps?

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Hyper_pak

Mostly #2, but partially #3 - there may or may not be a displacement class involved, and I've always wanted to build a super high rod-ratio engine . . .

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1963 D100: 3-on-the-tree, 3.50 rear, mostly original, stainless bore clutch slave & brake master, rebuilt speedo, original rebuilt carb.

1961 D200: crew cab short bed, sold.

1965 D500 Crew Cab, planning a 6V92 swap and 6x6 conversion.

Part of this experiment is to see just how high I can get the CR without going boom on pump gas, and aluminum caps would give the mains a better chance at surviving. Is it probably overkill? Yeah, definitely. Is it a big cost increase when I'm already going to have the machine shop line bore/hone it? Not really.

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1963 D100: 3-on-the-tree, 3.50 rear, mostly original, stainless bore clutch slave & brake master, rebuilt speedo, original rebuilt carb.

1961 D200: crew cab short bed, sold.

1965 D500 Crew Cab, planning a 6V92 swap and 6x6 conversion.

I was just curious. While I don't agree with using that long a rod, some of us do weird things. I have a 170 block that has a 170 crank, 2.2 turbo pistons, and 170 rods, that had to have about .180 removed from the deck, to bring the pistons back to zero deck height (which is stock). Then with the dish in the piston, compression is less than factory. The only thing gained was a better ring package, and a lighter wallet.
PS: I didn't build this, but have all the parts. Just don't know what to do with the block.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

That does sound like a lot of work for minimal gains. I'm going to go with a custom rod and probably some version of a 4G64 stroker piston, so take full advantage of the deck height. I know I could make oodles more power for a fraction of the money by just boosting a basically stock 225, but I like doing experiments and I have a displacement limit.

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1963 D100: 3-on-the-tree, 3.50 rear, mostly original, stainless bore clutch slave & brake master, rebuilt speedo, original rebuilt carb.

1961 D200: crew cab short bed, sold.

1965 D500 Crew Cab, planning a 6V92 swap and 6x6 conversion.

Nitti has 440 caps in his Duster. IIRC, the thrust cap needs some machining for the bearing to fit properly.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

So silly me thought I could just do a quick google search and find a set of new high performance crank/rod bearings . . . . but I'm finding that's not the case. Any recommendation on bearings? Realistically for the hp and RPM levels I'm looking at, stock replacement would probably be fine, but I'd rather step up to something a little higher performance if I can find it . . .

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1963 D100: 3-on-the-tree, 3.50 rear, mostly original, stainless bore clutch slave & brake master, rebuilt speedo, original rebuilt carb.

1961 D200: crew cab short bed, sold.

1965 D500 Crew Cab, planning a 6V92 swap and 6x6 conversion.

King bearings are very good.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I've heard that too, but when I looked at their catalog I only found bearings listed for "1960-1976 cast crank" engines, which has me a bit perplexed. HAHA! Does anyone know a P/N that works for sure with a forged crank?

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1963 D100: 3-on-the-tree, 3.50 rear, mostly original, stainless bore clutch slave & brake master, rebuilt speedo, original rebuilt carb.

1961 D200: crew cab short bed, sold.

1965 D500 Crew Cab, planning a 6V92 swap and 6x6 conversion.