I'm going to try to hone out the crap in the cylinders it's a lower mile engine that still had the og timing chain and nylon gear but I wanted to know if there was anything special I need to do so I decided to do some outsourcing to the hive mind.
Do I need to change the piston rings or just send it or is this a waste of time and just have it machined.
This is going into my 1980 w150 and everything about this is low budget and smiles per gallon

Hard to see, but it looks like those need boring out and new pistons+rings+bearings. You could try honing them and getting new rings, but I would not be too optimistic about it not burning some oil and/or having poor compression on 1 or more cylinders. How deep are the ring ridges in the bores? How deep might the pits be further down in the bore?

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

The ridges are really just carbon and arent pronounced at all. there is rust pits in one cylinder that i can catch with my fingernail and they arent deep at all its just surface rust i assume from sitting.
If i dont have the best compression on the one cylinder that has the pits then so be it its a slant and it was running when pulled from the guy i got it from so i assume it sat for years before he was driving it being low miles and all.
Im going about as low budget as i can iu got the truck for $500 the engine trans and transfer case for $800 and i can fix anything its just how cheap can i be and still have fun.

If you use a 3 leg cylinder hone the stones being more rigid will reveal the bore condition better than the bottle brush hone.. Then you may be able to determine how good or bad the ring seal is by looking at the crosshatch or eyebrows where the stones are not touching. I think they tend to be cheaper as well...

OK, I would probably buy new rings and do a hone and put it back together. Look at the bearings and see if they are OK too and at least plastigage them before reinstalling rods/pistons.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Well i honed the cylinders most of the pitting is sorta still there but drastically reduced but the kicker is in pretty much 3 cylinders the ring gap is ~.035 then closes down to .024 maybe a quarter of an inch or more then goes to or close enough to spec its fine.
Well seeing how everyone hypes up the slants reliability im going to send it. Probably get it running in less than a month and driving shortly after but the front 2 are tapered the worst. Unless someone is in the midwest around se iowa and has a slant i can have for cheap its going to be the absolute epidemy of send it i can think of along with the truck itself being a pos.