I am going to be installing the windshield and back glass in my 63 valiant this weekend. Hopefully.

I have been told a couple of things about getting it to seal and wanted to get some opinions on the best way to approach this. (I am at the “I’ve never done this and don’t want to screw up Jitters stage in this project.)

I am using a new gasket for the front and reusing the original gasket for the rear (the rear was OK). I am installing new lockdown strip. The windshield is new and quite a bit thinner than the original one (ahhhhh technology).

This is what I have been told to do:

• 1. Install the windshield in the gasket without any sealer.
  2. Install the gasket on the car.
  3. Seal the windshield with windshield sealer. (This should take about a tube. This is the stuff that flows into the cracks and cures in about an hour.)
  4. Install the lockdown strip.
  5. Test for leaks with a hose.

Questions:

• ·Do I need to put sealer between the windshield and the gasket?
  ·Do I need to do anything special because the new windshield is not as thick as the original?
  ·Do I wait to install the lockdown strip until the sealer has cured?
  ·Is there a specific brand of sealer that has worked well for others?
  ·Am I missing anything here?

I usually find out the answer to the last one at the worst possible time.

Thanks for the help,

John

John,

I removed and replaced both the windshield and the back window on my '63 Valiant. Since they were the "old" glass, I didn't have a thickness problem, but do want to offer some advice about the process. I removed both windows and cleaned and primered the fence the window gasket sits on. Then re-installed the windows. I put the front window in first without any kind of lubricant, following the directions in the service manual I have for the Valiant. The front window went in easy and set in the gasket well. Then I put in the back window; this time I didn't read the section in the book about installing the rear window, why would it be any different? Well, it is. The rear window needs a lubricant in the glass channel of the seal to allow it to shift slightly and conform to the body. After I installed the back window, I went up to check on the windshield, I heard a loud "pop" and had the back window in the back seat in a million pieces. Cleaned up the mess, found a replacement and this time used liguid dish soap in the glass channel and every thing went together as it was supposed to. I don't think the "thin" glass for the front will be a problem, but if it leaks after installation you can inject the sealer down between the glass and the inside of the glass channel. I have the original service manual for the '63 Valiant and can send the instructions as an attachment to an e-mail if you wish. I haven't mastered the HTML process yet so can't put them on this site; Chuck can probably attest to my ineptness in that area. Good luck. Please let me know if I can help. RMDV.

Carl Zeamer
carwinzeam@att.net

_________________
Carl Zeamer. an old guy, please be gentle.

Carl,

Thanks for the tip on the soap. I had the rear window out when the car was painted and put it back in for the ride home. I have it sitting in a rack I made now waiting for the final install. I’m really paranoid about breaking that one. I'm glad it didn't pop out on me.

I have a copy of the 63 service manual. It is a bit confusing. If I remember correctly, there is a section on installing the windshield and a second section on installing the gasket. I'm sure if I read it a couple more times, I'll get it. I haven't found the section on installing the rear window. Like you said, why would it be different? I’ll look for it.

So you didn't use sealer where the glass meets the gasket?
Did you use it to seal the gasket to the body?
If you did use it, did you seal before or after replacing the lock strip?
If I remember correctly, the service manual only talks about using sealer if you have leaks. I'll need to read it again.
Did you have leaks?

Thanks,

John

Do use a good sealer between the gasket and the body and between the gasket and the glass.

I hate leaks soooo much that I use a bunch of RTV just to make sure I get a leak-free seal.
I buy a big tube of RTV, the one that you load into a caulking gun.
I put a bead of sealer into the outer gasket channel then place it on the body "socket lip". If you don't see sealer squeeze-out along the joint, use the caulking gun and shoot-in some extra, especially in the lower corners.

Now put some sealer in the inner channel where the glass installs, you don't need as much here. I lay a strong string in the channel, up the sides and along the top and let the sealer hold it there while I set the glass directly into the lower channel groove.

Now use the string to pull back the rubber gasket while you slip the glass under the rubber lip. Having two people, one working each side at the same rate really helps. The RTV is slippery and that helps and don't be worried about the big mess, you will wipe it up when you are finished.

Again, squirt-in extra sealer if you see a dry area. Now push-in the lock strip, try to work fast so it goes-in before the RTV completely sets.

The last step is to clean-up all the mess, if you don't make a big mess, you did not use enough sealer!

This is just the way I do it, it is not "by the book" but it does give you a good seal.
DD

John,

Doc's method will certainly work. After the hose test on my windshield installation, I had a slight leak at the lower corner on the driver's side. The water ran down the outside of the glass, then in between the glass and the seal, under the glass and out onto the corner of the dash. I filled the glass channel with the black sealer, RTV, in both corners and it has not leaked since; that was about four years ago. I put the windshield in by myself, but if you have some help as Doc has indicated it goes much better. The old Valiant bodies (and probably Darts too) had a certain propensity to leak especially in a hard rain storm. Mine has been dry since I took the windows out and resealed and re-installed them. Good luck with yours, let us know how it turns out. RMDV

Carl Zeamer

_________________
Carl Zeamer. an old guy, please be gentle.

RTV ?!?!??!?! Eewwwwww............
Get some good stuff from your local auto glass place. Polyurethane or something like that.

Craig is right, I am sure there is better sealer out there for this job but make sure you get a sealer and not the adheisive (glue) that many of the later "no gasket" windshield use. That stuff is super sticky and hard to clean-up.

I feel that RTV works OK in this application because it is so slippery and is covered-up by the gasket. I'm not sure how UV light resistant RTV is and it would be nice to find a sealer that does not set-up / cure as fast. (more working time / "pot life" would take some of the stress out of this sensitive install.)
DD

Well my windshield and back glass are in.

I pretty much followed Doc's instructions.

The glass place I bought the windshield from recommended 3M Glazing and Bedding Compound, part number 08509. I used 2 tubes.

On the rear window I put a bead of sealer on the body and then installed the gasket to the body. I then put another bead in the glass channel. Next I set the glass in the gasket and worked it in with a piece of soft wood. pretty much like the string technique, except with a handle. I tried the string technique, but the string came out of the channel. My friend Greg helped my get the windows in. I don't think I could have done it by myself. With the back glass it was helpful to have someone push on (support) the bottom of the glass from the inside so that the gasket stayed aligned on the car.

In the front, I put the sealer in both the glass channel and body channel of the gasket and then installed the gasket on the car. This way I had a bit of trouble getting the gasket to stick to the car. I think I ended up doing a better job on the rear.

I then installed new lock strip. I just need to find another corner piece for the rear lock strip and I’ll be set.

I made quite a mess and am still cleaning it up. I keep getting distracted and sidetracked. Once I finish the brake work (they need a good bleeding) I’ll move the car out of my garage and leak test it.

Thanks for all the tips,

John