2/23/23:

I worked on cleaning up and painting some under hood things.

Had to remove most of the passenger side engine components and engine bay components on the same side to shimmy the Valve cover on and off to fix it's leak. Quite tricky on the '60-'62 Models with the Heater core box hanging over the valve cover.


Got the Coil Bracket detailed and clean - Mounting bolts were just greasy and grimy - so much oil that they never really surface rusted



Got the Horns and Alternator Case Degrimed and blasted clean ready for paint.
- Will also be adding a proper set of NOS MoPar Wires - incorrect date code from the '80's but better than the old parts store garbage that was on there.
Will be replacing the Spark Plug O ring seals as well! also sourced the proper (factory correct) 1 groove alternator pulley to replace the ubiquitous parts store double pulley on the remanufactured alternator.

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That's lookin' good Greg.

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“Buy the ticket, take the ride.”
― Hunter S. Thompson

Thanks, I should get to the distributor tonite, it needs cleaned and I will rebuild it too.

The pertronix Ignitor II arrived in the mail today.

New Dist. Gear, Clean and respring it as well as reset the timing.
I have verified that the vacuum advance can works and it does... But I have yet to check the timing but it's going to be reset anyway.

Greg

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Great vehicle and getting better! Hah, I guess I am lucky I got a fully street/strip 62 Valiant from Mr. Seymour Pederson. No heater box, so much easier VC r'n'r on mine... Someday I may try to buy this wagon from you, Greg!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Make the heater hoses just a little longer than absolutely necessary, just long enuf that you can flop them over the valve cover toward the manifolds when removing the valve cover. Remove the RH horn and pull the spark plug wires off the plugs. Unbolt the valve cover, lift it and rotate it counterclockwise (as viewed from the front; you're turning it down over the spark plug side of the head). When you get the angle just right, you can pluck the cover off out from under the heater box.

Or just install a 170 engine, then it's easy!
Careful; most of these are much higher output than the original 30- to 35-amp rating because some ignorant dillweed decided to consolidate everything up to 50A to a 50A unit. The wiring on a '62 is marginal even when new, and there's almost no circuit protection. See here; here; here, and here.

Engine spiff-up is lookin' terrific!

DS

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I can attest to that. I have a bunch of used alternators, of unknown condition. We have a small alternator shop in town. The owner is really nice. He has been testing these units for me, at no charge (I'm giving him something). Doing more then I expected. puts a tag on each unit stating the condition, voltage, and max amp output. Even got me a 1/2 dozen of the splt bushings that go in the mounting hole at no charge. Every one that has tested as working has been way over the "normal" factory output.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

2/27/23:

Thank you for the Sage Advice Charrlie and Dan.

I will still be looking for a Functioning Low Horn (it's the driver's Side Horn - I Think it's a Low tone)
I spiffed it up, looks nice, but does not work The Horn contacts between the steering wheel and the little brass contact wheel on the turn signal switch need cleaned.. it beeps only in certain areas of steering angle - hafta get that solved.

As to the confirmation of the alternator output... I got clamp on ammeter. and I will check it with all of the accessories running as well as all of the lights to see what I come up with for the output.

For now I added a 2nd 8 Gauge wire from the alternator output to the Starter relay battery terminal bypasssing the firewall bulkhead and ammeter resistance mumbo jumbo. It may be a temporary fix, not a permanent one. The dashboard Ammeter does not move at all now, and that is okay, hopefully this takes some of the amperage load out of the old wiring for battery charging purposes.

I ordered the proper Distributor Upper and Lower Gaskets / O Rings. the Distributor had no o ring up top and the 61 year square cut ring in the lower cavity. As a temporary solution I cut down this sort of unknown gasket from my supplies... It fit the bottom of the distributor, but does not fit the gasket register correctly in the block... it's temporary.


I am not sure what these gaskets are for, but I have a number of them in my pile of slant 6 engine gasket sets.



The ID fits the Distributor well, but the OD needed cut down.


Here are the NOS 1982 Spark plug wires:


Might get dinked at the Concours show circuit but that's okay.

Replaced this failing molded wiring mess with a non stock crimp on ring connector.
It was for the coil power... sort of important to be functional.


Right side Engine mostly spiffed (especially if you don't look at the grease and grime on the side of the block below the head!)



Some time in the future .. Clean up the ugly half baked Aluminum intake, Get A proper Air Filter Housing - I am thinking the 1962-1965 B engine unsilenced type, to replaced the 14" JC whitney / Ebay special that is on there now. Detail the Headers / JEt Hot coating / Clean up Detail the Starter, clean up the Ballast Resisitor Mount, Case for the Horn Relay, Starter Relay and the Back side of the voltage regulator. Basically all of the stuff that was factory cadmium plated. Maybe I will get those disc brakes on there this summer too.

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Getting Caught up on some of my Uncle Dan Documentation.

Will have to go and upgrade to the Additional Fuses method of alternative wiring out of the alternator.
For now, I just have one additional 8 Gauge wire Running from the Alternator to the Stater Relay Battery +.
I put a clamp on ammeter on the 2 Wires coming from that remanufactured alternator and Ran the Fan, Dome Lights Radio / Hi beams etc... It would spike the output up to about 70 Amps at times, while Idle was at 30-40 Amps.

Thanks Charrlie and Dan.


That leads me to my next question.. How do the rebuilders change an original 30 Amp Alternator into say a 60 Amp unit?
Is the field or stator or both changed to a part with more windings from the alternator rebuild parts supply house?

Cheers, Greg

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Max output depends on the winding characteristics of the stator and rotor. Cheap and nasty hi-amp upgrades just throw a 'bigger' stator at it…which, yes, increases the max output, but torpedoes the alternator's low-RPM output. Cheap and nasty 'remanufacturing' processes involve just throwing alternators together with whatever stator and rotor comes to hand. Results are random and usually at least one kind of bad. The stator and rotor really need to be appropriately matched to each other. You might want to save yourself a whole lot of aggravation and just get a new Chrysler alternator from Old Car Parts Northwest. Most (maybe all) the ones they have on shelf are '70-up dual-field types, but those are easy to use on a '69-down car; just ground one of the two field terminals and then hook up the alternator as normal.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Just a little update on alternator output.
Had a couple of used rebuilt alternators tested. One round back, and one square back. The round back tested at 82 amps max, and the square back tested at 87 amps max.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Hmm... I am guessing those are a bit on the high side??

Good data , thanks for sharing.
Greg

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3/30/23:

A while back I did another Oil Change, and serviced the Oil Pressure relief valve. The valve was surprisingly clean. I had a little over 1000 miles since the last oil change and it uses a lot of oil and blows blue smoke like a 2 cycle lawn boy from the '70's It will need rebuilt sometime. The drain oil is quite dirty too.

I bought a set of All season tires in a 215-70R-14 Size and mounted them up. Nice to have 4 tires of the same size/ aspect and diameter now. The fronts were worn with maybe 200-500 miles as the alignment when I got the car had such an amazing amount of positive camber.... reminded me of the old racing bugattis'.

4 New 215-70-14's installed. The largest 14" size I can fit without cutting the front fenders.
They are larger than the 205's and 195's that were on the car from the previous owner.


Main Reason to purchase new tires was to replace the burned out 195's from the faulty alignment.


Installed some short valve stems as well.


Got to use some of my favorite shop tools up in the loft. - Need to Swap a set of tires / wheels at 11PM - .... No Problem.


A little different look than before - no white walls and Filling up the wheel wells a bit more.

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It's a sweet ride! Lookin' good Greg.

_________________
“Buy the ticket, take the ride.”
― Hunter S. Thompson

Thanks for the kind words Brad!

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10/6/23:

Labor Day weekend in the 62 Valiant wagon:
Loaded up to go to a local community day festival. Ava was selling her jewelry.





Ava made the local paper too:
https://triblive.com/local/westmoreland ... -all-ages/

Then Off to a car cruise and dinner later that night.
Sunday we went to the local amusement park - we had the only ' 62 valiant there.

Last nite, we drove to Buttermilk Falls for a nice October drive into the mountains...
I could not resist taking some pictures.


If you look carefully there is a silly-faced kid in there





It is also a rare time when both '62's share the same garage bay at home:-)



Till next time.

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