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 Post subject: Rear Drum Brakes
PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2003 8:37 am 
O.K. I have some stupid questions; but I am pretty new to car repair, so here goes. I am repairing my rear drum brake cylinders and I cannot get the drums off. I figured they need to be replaced b/c the master cylinder leaked till dry and I recently had the front cylinders replaced. I realize the lines could be leakings as well. How do I take the drums off? Also, I went to take the screws off of the bleeder line (I know I shouldn't have until I have the brakes off). The screws broke off. Suggestions on what to do? I have broken off a couple of screws on doing a manifold job before and am not an expert at tapping; but, I was thinking that there has to be a way to get bolts and what not out without torqueing them and snapping them clear off. Should I heat them up with a propane torch or something? Thanks for the help.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2003 9:10 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Troy, Texas
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Luke,
You probably know about the knurled brake adjuster, the one where you reach through the hole with a screwdriver and crank the little "wheel" to tighten or loosen your brake shoes. Make sure it is adjusted to take tension off the shoes, so they aren't pressing on the drum. If the drums haven't been turned in a while, they may have worn down so there is a small lip along the edge where the shoes can hang up. Then use a generous dose of your favorite penetrating oil around the hole in the drum where it slips over the hub. It may require several doses. Finally, take a hammer and continuously rap on the drum sharply, while pulling forward and giggling it with the other hand. Rap on it from several directions and in different locations. With a little persuasion, it will come loose. Just did it on my Duster last Sunday.

I've always been able to drill out and re-tap or use a screw extractor on broken bolts. Can't help you there.

Good luck,
Jerry

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There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2003 9:44 am 
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Location: Central GA
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"...screws off the bleeder line". I'm confused as to which screws you are referring to, but if they are associated with the rear wheel cylinder, you're gonna be tossing it and replacing it with a shiny new Chinese piece anyway...

One more thing on those adjusters, it's not quite as easy as it sounds. Depending on year, model, etc, many cars equipped with functioning self-adjusters only allow the adjuster wheel to turn one way - tighter - unless you disengage the "pawl" or lever from the wheel first. To accomplish this, it helps to have a little flashlight to peer up into the adjuster holes. Then use one screwdriver to push the lever back away from the adjuster wheel, and another to turn the wheel to make it looser. Of course the flashlight is held in your third hand :wink: This is always a great deal of fun. After you get the hang of it, you can go by feel and will no longer need the flashlight.

Also, after making sure the car is securely jacked up and chocked, take the car out of gear so you can rotate the drum as you pull, bang, beat, swear, etc. This helps a lot.

"DW"

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2003 3:32 pm 
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And make sure you release the e-brake...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2003 6:12 pm 
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Wow DW I wish I had 3 hands. :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Last edited by 74.swinger on Wed Feb 16, 2011 10:38 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2003 10:09 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Personally I could use four :!:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2003 5:23 pm 
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yeah a few extras sure would come in "handy" :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Last edited by 74.swinger on Wed Feb 16, 2011 10:38 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2003 5:31 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Didn't dawn on me until I read the orginal post why I couldn't get the drums off my 7.25. Idiot, :roll: :roll: :roll: back off the wheel adjustors! Only been doing this for 20 years, strange how you forget these details...Dave


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2003 5:32 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Gotta "hand" it to you guys, you're pretty clever.

Jerry

_________________
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2003 5:34 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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As are you 74 Sport....Dave


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2003 12:42 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Dave,
I'll bet you will now remove those drums next time very "handily".

Jerry

_________________
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:18 am 
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Id bet we would all pay handsomely for an extra
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Last edited by 74.swinger on Wed Feb 16, 2011 10:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Scare them for parts
PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2003 10:38 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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I'll be using that lesson this week when I install my disc. My Brother-in-law borrowed the Dart over the weekend and returned this morning as white as a ghost. "How in the h#$@ do you stop this thing in a emergency"? :shock: As a result of this episode he gave me a complete SBP disc setup off his long dead-rotting in my garage 70 Duster! All in my evil quest for free parts. . :twisted: ............................................................................ (Too bad I have to take the wife to Vegas next week, was looking forward to getting mutalited and greasy...Dave)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2003 11:27 am 
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Thats great thinking. Free parts are the best kind. :D :D
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Last edited by 74.swinger on Wed Feb 16, 2011 10:39 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2003 3:40 pm 
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I know 9" drums aren't the best thing in the world, but I was going 70 once on a freeway, stomped on the brakes cause of sudden traffic halt, and the wheels locked. How much more stoping power do you guys want then that?


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