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| HOT rear passenger drum, others warm. https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=68367 |
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| Author: | jayman62 [ Fri Sep 26, 2025 11:19 am ] |
| Post subject: | HOT rear passenger drum, others warm. |
Hello, I’d like to preface this by saying I have researched this here and other places before asking a question. I have a 1966 Dart GT (with a 225). I changed to a dual master cylinder a while back. All hard lines and soft lines have been replaced, all new brake components all around, all 4 wheels, and they are 9” drums all around. I am having an issue with my rear passenger side drum brake gets very hot compared to the other brakes. I have tried every trick I can think of to remedy, including that sides wheel bearing, loosening the parking brake cable, backed off the adjustment wheel, have changed springs, drum, wheel cylinder. Tested brake pedal is returning when pressed. I also know the brake releases, with the car stationary and wheel off the ground. I have a Raybestos MC36221 master cylinder, 1 inch bore As stated all new Inline Tube hard lines front to back. Inline tubes distribution block BLK243 for dual conversion and new dist, block in the rear, the one mounted on the axle. It would seem I have some hydraulic issue where the brake pads do not release, spinning the tire with the wheel off the ground I don’t hear any noticeable rubbing or locking. It’s fine the first 20 minutes of driving, However, when I drive a while longer, braking begin to fade, and sometime will lock up with normal braking, forget panic stopping if I jam the brakes it starts skidding. I would welcome any suggestions. I’m leaning master cylinder, should I use a different one? I even did a YouTube video on this problem to document everything I have tried for reference. Thank you. |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Fri Sep 26, 2025 12:26 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: HOT rear passenger drum, others warm. |
Personally, I would remove all of the parking brake mechanisms before going further. I see you replaced that wheel's wheel cylinder, which could have been dragging/ratcheting due to internal rust. If the hardline is partially plugged going to that wheel, that might also do it. I would probably replace that hardline before anything else. I have a coffee can full of new or good 9" drum parts that you can have for shipping, if you want it. I don't recall all that is in there, but there are front wheel bearings, some hardware, wheel cyls and rebuild kits. I can look this weekend. Lou |
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| Author: | jayman62 [ Fri Sep 26, 2025 12:35 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: HOT rear passenger drum, others warm. |
Lou, Thanks for replying. Yes I did replace that wheel cylinder even though it was new itself when I did all the brakes, the hard line is brand new so I don't suspect a clog. I was entertaining taking the parking brake components out temporarily, maybe I will try that. Thank you for your offer of parts, really nice of you, I have a good set of spares parts, but appreciate the offer. Jay |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Sat Sep 27, 2025 4:10 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: HOT rear passenger drum, others warm. |
I've mostly had stock brake hoses collapse and "ratchet" hydraulically, so those are what I check/replace first, but the hardline could do it too. Might be a defective "new" wheel cylinder is my next guess after you rule out parking brake. I'm really looking to give away or throw out these parts (although no big hurry), so let me know... Lou |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sat Sep 27, 2025 11:31 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: HOT rear passenger drum, others warm. |
Now more than ever, new parts are not necessarily good parts. Replacement parts quality is in the toilet even for recent-model cars, and much worse for older models. |
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