Working on a truck cab. '90 model, cab going on my 83.
Drip rail over windshield is holey. I figured lead would stick better and seal better, preventing/ drastically slowing down further rust better than anything else. Thoughts? How to tips?
I've fixed a few cracked copper radiator tanks by soldering over the years, (never replaced a tank by soldering before though) and I've sweated lots of copper plumbing pipe fittings over the years so I kinda understand the process somewhat.
I wish I knew an old school Gene Winfield type around here...

So I've seen a few body work video if not car shows where body techs or people reshape metal parts back , weld and , grind , sand, then use tin to fill in areas for a concours level fit and finish. Have you seen any video or shows of this?
I'm sure a labor intensive process for a perfect no filler body.search and see what you can find. Not too sure about lead. Solderable, soft, too soft. Might have to look into that.
Definitely top not restoration to factory standards.

I'm looking for the most durable longest lasting repair. This truck will be far from OEM stock / "original". But it will be a 3 season daily driver. I've already bought 2 cabs that once I started stripping them weren't what they were supposed to be. I ain't buying a 3rd. I'm making the best with what I have. Both cabs are great down low, the other areas that they are known for having issues.