Any help please. Need locations of Junction points on wiring g diagram for a 1962 Lancer.

No stop lights + no turn signals = probably dead turn signal switch. The power for the brake lights goes through the turn signal switch (because the same lights are used for both functions at the rear of the car). The fact that front _and_ rear turn signals _and_ brake lights are inoperative puts the turn signal switch at the top of the list of suspects. See here and send me a PM.

Odds are strong but not quite 100 per cent that the new T/S switch will fix the problems. You might also have other problems in addition.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks for reply, was hoping not that.

Found out it was a bad flasher wire after all and now problem resolved.
Luckily my turn switch is still good..

I'm the supplier. I've sent you a PM (private message) here on the board.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I agree with Dan's assessment. Also, he is selling a very high quality turn signal switch assembly. I have used at least two of these and they work as well or better than the factory original switches!

Slant on,
Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

So the power for turn signal is on only with ignition on??
May have a bad ignition switch..

Correct.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks for everyone's help.
I figured it out a burnt wire to flasher. I'm a purists, but reversed. Flasher terminal polarity instead of getting o12 stock common flasher to work found easily at most auto store and cheap online.
My light look awesome with great brightness and clarity. When lights off, they look clear and stock.
A great stealthy upgrade..
I'll post some pics later...

Oof – that was unwise. It was a large error.
Maybe so, but – like the overwhelming majority of "LED bulbs" they do not (cannot) work effectively or safely.
Yikes. This is another error. Real turn signal lenses have optics moulded in, to distribute the light through the needed range of angles. Adding random pieces of plastic messes with the optics.

All vehicle exterior lighting functions, even the ones that aren't mandatory (like daytime running lights and side turn signal repeaters in the USA, or central brake lights on cars made before 1986, etc) are highly specified as to their design, construction, numerous aspects of performance, durability, etc. And this was just as much true in 1962 as it is today. The specs are much more detailed than just "Well, it's an amber light and it lights up when I put on the turn signals and it looks nice to me".
Yes, that is the case: there are important things to know about the safety lights on a car, which a lot of people do not know. The signal lights on a car have to put out the right amounts of light through the right range of angles. The guy way up high in the driver's seat of a semi tractor needs to be able to accurately them immediately…and so does the guy two lanes over with his butt four inches off the ground in the driver's seat of his Corvette. The difference between bright (turn signal) and dim (park) mode has to be adequate. Et cetera. Please take a look at this post, which I wrote years ago in re someone who was very ambitiously making his own LED taillights for a '66 Dart.

This info applies no matter what kind of light source we're working with; I point you at it not because I think you should go to the trouble of the involved measurements I describe (that was more for his build-from-scratch project), but just so you get some idea of the complexity involved beyond "Yep, it lights up and I think it looks great".

Bulb-type lamps (brake light, tail light, parking light, turn signal, sidemarker, DRL, whatever) rely on a point source of light, a glowing filament, that radiates more or less equally in all directions—a sphere of light—collecting and distributing that light with optics in the lens and/or reflector. A group of LEDs, however it might be arranged, can't duplicate such a sphere of light at the required scale, so the light distribution from bulb-type lamps equipped with "LED bulbs" like this is usually seriously degraded. To put it a little more simply: "LED bulbs", no matter what they look like, put out a different distribution of light than filament bulbs. That means unlike a filament bulb, physical fit of an LED bulb in a lamp does not necessarily mean it will work safely – and in virtually all cases, it will not.

Often, even if one of the functions (dim park or bright turn) might meet at least some of the intensity & angle checkpoints, virtually always there is insufficient difference between the bright and dim mode, which is very dangerous.

There are other reasons why "LED bulbs" are ill-advised, but these are the main ones. There are much safer, more effective ways of putting amber front turn signals on a pre-1963 car originally equipped with white ones.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hey slant six Dan thanks for reply for links. What is year and model of car that made similar amber lenenses as park??
Thanks

'63-'64 Dart + '63 Valiant front turn lenses are the exact same part, except in amber rather than clear. Here's a nice, inexpensive pair of them, or here's a bunch of perfect new old stock ones.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Problem resolved. Bad flasher wirer replaced. Flashers working great again.
Luckily my turn signal switch is still good with no need for replacement....
No further tech help needed, thanks for all advice..

They say the neon lights are bright on broadway..