Is it normal for a completely new front suspension, including new coils to sit high until it settles a bit?

I have the front end of my truck completely rebuilt, including new coil springs. I noted that the gap between the top of the tires and the fender is bigger than it used to be. The truck is still sitting on ramps in the front and jack stands in the back, so I can;t get a good picture or really good look, but it sure does seem that the front is noticeably higher than it was before.

Then again, maybe the old rear springs are worn out and the old front springs were, too, so the new front springs just reveal a problem that used to be hidden by worn out coil springs.

However, the new coil springs have more but thinner coils than the old springs:
The new springs (on the right) are the same resting height as the old springs, but the spring is slightly thinner and there is one more loop than the old springs.

Should I relax and give the new suspension time to settle? I added coil spring isolators on top of the coils, if that makes a difference.

More and thinner coils should be a softer coil I would think. I would give it a bit to settle in.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I replaced many coil springs over my years of turning wrenches. It was common for cars that had new fronts to sit nose high for a bit. We did have customers that couldn't stand it even for a while that would then ask for new rears.
And if you went with cargo coils (variable rate) springs they wouldn't quite sit as high as if we had put stock type replacement coils in (not saying original equipment as aftermarket offered both for most cars and trucks common then)
But they wouldn't squat quite as much when loaded as they would with constant rate springs either and usually ride better with the variable rate.
And you can't judge how a vehicle will sit by comparing "free length" of new vs old springs while springs are sitting next to each other on the floor. Sometimes they use slightly different gauge wire to make the springs than original. Then consider the old ones are wore out so will take less to compress than new ones would.
8 do know that shortly after putting a 318 where a /6 used to be in my 79 D100 I had a front spring bust on me... That truck carries a /6 for 12 years before I made the swap. Now with a 318 putting more pressure against the old springs on every dip and bump brought out the fatigue the springs already had.
And consider the parts catalog shows the same replacement springs for the same truck whether a /6 or a 318 when new they don't have any fatigue yet...

I'm not sure, so someone correct me if I am wrong, but.
I think, if the static hight is the sane as the old spring, the smaller dia of the coil will give a softer ride (less lb/in of deflection) but the extra coil will give a total load the same as the old spring.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

A bit, maybe, but don't expect much settlement.
Highly likely.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I think that is backward Charlie. The longer coil spring (or a leaf a leaf spring for that matter) has more leverage and will move easier. ie be softer. If you were to stretch the spring out it takes less force to move it if it was 3 ft long as compared to one that is 2 ft long, with the same size spring diameter, due to the leverage. That's my story and I'm stickin to it. I think.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

You could be right, I can't remember. I do remember on my Circle Track "stocker" truck, I cut a couple of coils off the front coil springs, and then put a spacer in the spring pocket, to get the ride hight back. It really stiffened up the front suspension.
PS: We had to run "stock" suspension.
PPS: On my rear leaf suspension, I raised the front spring eye mount, and had a spring shop de-arch the spring.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

You have done a lot of interesting things Charlie!

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

OK, thanks all. I will let it be and see if the front end settles down. Then compare the back end and see if I need to look into lowering the front or raising the rear.

Primarilly a Drag Racer. Have raced at 52 different tracks. Can't tell how many different cars. At one time I had 4 different cars for 4 different brackets, and was racing 4-5 times a week
My 65 Valiant 170 slant, for stock eliminator, and "street" bracket, 65 Valiant 273 V-8 for "heavy" bracket, a 68 Merc Cougar with a mopar 440 for "Pro" bracket, and a small block Chevy powered front motor dragster for "super pro" bracket.
Circle track: 3 different dirt tracks, and two different ashpault tracks
Couple of stints at "autocross" with a Austin Healy 100-6. (Not my car)
For a "low budget" racer, I have done fairly well and have enjoyed over 65 years of racing.
I will say the best time I have had racing is with the slant six series.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Just a silly question...did you tighten all bushings with the truck sitting on it wheels?

I watched some videos of people installing rear lowering shackles on trucks that torqued the leaf spring bolts with the suspension dropped and ended up with trucks sitting higher than when they started.

That's part of why things have to settle out before you worry too much.
That said all the talk about "torque". I never measured torque in all the suspension work I've done.
Either zip zip with an impact wrench or hand / manually twist as tight as I can (sometimes with a "cheater" and was always "good enough".
Especially when you consider that any torque spec I have ever seen on these suspensions said to "tighten to next cotter pin hole once torque is reached, never loosen to line up cotter pin slots/ holes" so your measured torque by torque wrench goes out the window anyway. Not only that but unless you take fenders, fenderwells etc off wrench access is a
limited and getting accurate torque one click at a time is futile. I can't tell you how many jobs I get 1 turn of a open end, flop open end over so wrench offset allows another bite, flip wrench over again, repeat. Or 1 click of a ratchet at a time. Can't really" torque* a fastener very well in such tight quarters

The job can be done correctly if you have the correct tools and use the correct techniques.

Hurr, whatevvvz, just halfaѕѕ it, I'm sure it'll be fine is a lazy way of raising the likelihoods of broken parts, crashed vehicles, hurt or dead people, and the necessity of re-repairs.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I am a big fan of torquing things to at least what the factory recommended. I am not a fan of things coming apart on the highway at speed.

All the ball joints and steering linkage nuts were torqued to spec with no weight on the suspension, but the control arm pivots bolts are torqued with the full weight of the truck on the suspension. Torquing the LCA pivot bolt to 210 ft/lbs with a beam torque wrench really sucks, especially when the vehicle is on jack stands and not a full lift.