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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2003 2:55 pm 
I got into my Dart this morning to head to school. I start her up, leave the neighborhood. 2.5 miles down the road, I try to stop for a red light so I hit the brake pedal and I stop perfectly. The cars ahead move up a little so I lighten the preasure on the pedal. Then I step on it again and it goes to the floor. The red "brake system" light goes on. From there on, the only way I could stop was to pump like crazy! When I press the pedal it's firm, I let up a little and press again and it goes to the floor. I can also hear a "fffff" sound when it goes to the floor. When I got home I checked the lines- they look fine, I checked the fluid level and it was fine also. I have it filled to the top. I enjoy driving the dart more than I do riding the bus! What do you guys suggest? I personally think it's the master cylinder. If it is, how do you replace them? Is it difficult/easy? I have manual drums all around.
I would really appreciate any help!
Thanks


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2003 5:54 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 03, 2003 2:10 pm
Posts: 107
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I know you said you checked the lines and dluid but check again really close and check the rear wheel cyls. If you dont find a leak there is a simple test. Pinch off all 3 rubber hoses with either a line lock tool or needle nose vise grips with vacuum hose over the jaws. if your pedal still sucks it is the master cyl.
Also look for fluid eating the paint off of the booster or firewall behindand below the master cyl.
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Last edited by 74.swinger on Wed Feb 16, 2011 10:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2003 11:37 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 5:02 pm
Posts: 1830
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Car Model: '23 T-bucket
67dart.....is this a power brake setup? If so, you may have a vacuum leak problem in the booster. If I recall correctly, there's also a check valve somewhere between the vac port at the engine and the booster that could be cracked or leaking.

I suggest you check the condition of the vac hose(s) and fittings.

Let's also see what a more knowledgable person thinks, as well.

Just where, exactly, are you hearing the noise from?

Roger


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2003 6:59 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2003 1:06 pm
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The same thing happend to me and it ended up i need all new brake hoses!!


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2003 12:39 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 10:42 am
Posts: 550
Location: Los Angeles, Ca
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On mine the rear adjusters would lift off the backing plates! Scary thought.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2003 2:25 pm 
No, it is not a power brake setup.(Manual 9.5's all around) By all new brake hoses, you mean the rubber ones that connect the hard lines to the drums? I just changed all four brake shoes about a month or two ago. This is my dailly driver so I've probably put 250-350 miles on it since I did it. It was working fine, but all of a sudden I've had this problem. Could you recomend a brake shop that I could take it to?


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2003 3:16 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 18, 2003 7:34 am
Posts: 2479
Location: Lubbock, Texas
Car Model: 1964 Plymouth Valiant V200 Sedan
I recently had one of those lessons in momentum and hydraulics (or lack therof), and wound up replacing the front brake hoses. Luckily, I didn't have to do practical exercises in auto-body repair or first aid.
Pretty simple job. Looking at the old hoses, I know I waited way too long.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2003 7:12 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

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Where do you live?? If you are close to me Id be happy to help you out.
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Last edited by 74.swinger on Wed Feb 16, 2011 10:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2003 9:07 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:54 pm
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Location: Hutchinson, MN
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Quote:
...... Pinch off all 3 rubber hoses with either a line lock tool or needle nose vise grips with vacuum hose over the jaws.....
Do NOT ever pinch your brake hoses like that. You will destroy them. What in the world are you thinking?


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2003 11:40 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 1:49 pm
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Location: Lubbock, TX
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Could be the cups are shot in the MC, allowing fluid to leak past the pistons. This could be why you are not loosing fluid and the fluid stays the same level in the MC. Get a new one or at least a rebuilt unit from a reputable parts store.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2003 4:59 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 03, 2003 2:10 pm
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Sorry to disagree butcraig this is standard parctice, If you dont have a line lock the rubber hose over the needle nose vice grips protect the brake hose. Dont crank them down so tight that you have to use both hands to close the grips. Just snug enough to stop the fluid from going through.
This is standard practice in many factory service manuals. It was even a question on one of those tests in MOTOR magazine.
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Last edited by 74.swinger on Wed Feb 16, 2011 10:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2003 3:30 pm 
I ended up buying a rebuilt master cylinder at auto zone for $13.99. I had it in and the brakes bled in half a day. Thanks for the help!


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