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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2003 2:32 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2003 4:39 pm
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Location: Los Angeles
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Well, the Duster is finally back on the road after completing the PST front end install. The suspension definitely feels more put together, but now the slack in the steering is all the more apperent. Any idea where I should begin my search to eliminate some of the slop? I know it's never gonna feel rack and pinion tight, but I am sure it can be better than this. BTW, it's got power steering. Thanks!


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2003 2:52 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2003 2:37 pm
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Location: CA
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After redoing my front I also discoverd I had slack in the steering. Turned out that it was my power steering gearbox.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2003 9:58 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
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Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
Did you replace the idler and pitman arms as part of the rebuild?
Also check to be sure the steering box is tight to the K-frame. (re-tighten the hold down bolts)

Have a friend move the steering wheel back and forth thru the "slack" while you go under the car and look at all the steering joints, you will see any lost motion or slop.

If all that stuff checks-out, it is a worn steering box.
DD


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2003 5:57 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2003 4:39 pm
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Location: Los Angeles
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Pitman and idler are still original, although on basic inspection seem to be sound. What about the steering box adjuster screw...according to my ancient Haynes it is supposed to compensate for wear in the box. Any particular procedure recommended to tighten this up - i.e how tight is too tight? Thanks as always.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2003 6:20 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 10:42 am
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Location: Los Angeles, Ca
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Per my ancient Chilton: with wheels straight ahead and steering wheel centered, disconnect pitman arm from center link.

Attach a pounds per foot pull scale between steering wheel and brake pedal assembly, loosen adjustment screw counter- clockwise and adjust lash until scale reads 1-1/2 to 2 pounds of pull lock to lock.

Retighten adjustment screw to 40ft pounds, now is a good to to remove the fill plug and top with 90w gear oil if needed, under no circumstances should a grease gun be used, tighten fill plug to 10ft pounds.

Reconnect pitman arm and steering link and perform alignment.


Last edited by mighty mouse 63 on Wed Nov 05, 2003 9:53 am, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2003 7:05 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Lubbock, TX
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I had to adjust the box on my old Fury once. If I remember right, loosen the lock nut from around the adjusting screw. Disconnect the pitman arm from the center link. Back off the adjusting screw untill you can feel backlash in the steering shaft. Adjust the screw untill untill any backlash just stops moving. Turn adjusting screw another 1/2 turn and tighten lock nut. Oh, make sure the steering wheel is centered after you disconnect the pitman arm when doing this since this is where most of the slop is.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2003 11:07 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
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Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
Quote:
BTW, it's got power steering. Thanks!
The backlash adjustment may not do much if it is a worn power steering box, give it a try and see what happens.
Double check all the steering linkage and check pricing on a rebuilt PS box, you can get a "firm feel" unit or "cop car box" which will give you way more response.
DD


Last edited by Doctor Dodge on Fri Nov 07, 2003 10:17 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2003 5:12 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2003 4:39 pm
Posts: 45
Location: Los Angeles
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I have heard of the "Firm Feel" boxes before, are they available through standard automotive channels (i.e. parts store rebuilds), or must they be purchased from performance vendors. Anyone have any pricing or source info? My plan for the Duster is sort of a "what-if" car...the AAR Duster. As such, handling will be of utmost importance and this firm feel box might be the ticket. I would say screw it and just go manual, but from what I understand the stock manuals had awful ratios and the Flaming River box is awfully spendy. Thanks.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2003 5:36 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 10:42 am
Posts: 550
Location: Los Angeles, Ca
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Firm Feel sells direct to the consumer, Check out any of the magazines for info on them, as for cost that depends on what you want.

They can build to your needs including non stock ratios, Maybe a fellow member has web site information and additional input, contact them and explain what you have in mind.

I was quoted $239.00 to rebuild my power box and I get to decide on the firmness. They have a excellent reputation, so when I get that far down the road will be giving them my business...Dave


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2003 9:25 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2003 4:39 pm
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Location: Los Angeles
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Well, it's probably not a permanent fix, but I was able to eliminate about 90% of the slack with the adjuster! It feels worlds better now...this is what I had in mind when I started going throught the front end. Guess I am just lucky and I will hope that it holds up for a while...


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