You should bolt it all together and burn rubber.
with the 4.10 rearend gears, this should be a pretty quick package.
DD
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| Help with my set-up https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7555 |
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| Author: | hgmopar [ Fri Nov 14, 2003 4:43 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Help with my set-up |
Hello everyone.. I am new to the site. What a great site you guys have here. Tons and tons of useful information!! Well I need some help/advice if anyone one can provide it. You guys seem to be the most knowledgable out there!!! To start off here is my veh and motor in a nutshell as it sits right now: 1966 Pymouth Valiant V-100 (No option car) 225 .060 over 276/276 .490" lift Weiand 4bbl. intake with 2bbl. adapter Holly 2bbl. 350cfm Clifford 3 into 2 headers Right now the Valiant has three on the tree I am going to update with the following: Automatic 904 3500 stall conv. 4.10 suregrip 8.75 Milled, ported and polished head with large valves. 1.70 intake 144 exhaust. this veh will be run on both street and strip! The questions I have: 1) Should I upgrade to a 500 cfm Edelbrock and is the intake that I have ok? 2) I have manual brakes... is the Cam to big with an auto transmission? What about the stall converter? To high? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. My goal is to get into the 13 second range if possible. Thanks Hank |
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| Author: | Doctor Dodge [ Sat Nov 15, 2003 8:52 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Welcome to the message board. Overall this looks like a pretty good combo of parts, Do you have a "cam card" or a little more info on that cam? Whos cam is it and how much overlap does it have? As for the auto trans and converter, what I worry about is the small crank hub used on the 60-67 SL6. Getting high stall converters (small nose) for this is hard, you usually have to have one custom made. If the engine is not yet built you may want to swap-in later a 68-75 forged crank and go with the later / larger splined input shaft on the 904 so you have better converter selection. (it's also stronger) As for the 350 Holley, those work Ok for a mild street performance SL6 but with the combo you are planning, the 500 cfm 4 bbl would be the way to go. DD |
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| Author: | Guest [ Sun Nov 16, 2003 6:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
My cam is mopar P/N 4286681 276-276-64 .490". I bought the car from a retired man who had the engine built by someone else and I don't know the year of the motor. I am buying a engine/transmission from a friend. The engine is a 1966. Torque convertor was custom made small nose. The engine has a ported and polished big valve head with only forty seven miles on it. |
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| Author: | Doctor Dodge [ Sun Nov 16, 2003 7:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
You should bolt it all together and burn rubber. with the 4.10 rearend gears, this should be a pretty quick package. DD |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Mon Nov 17, 2003 8:10 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
3500 stall will be very nice for that cam. I have used that cam with a big valve head and 2800-3000 stall and it worked great. Don't get a smaller converter than 10" or a stall speed below about 2600 or it will dog off the line. Best to get a real 9.5" or 9" converter made. The 500 Edelbrock 4bbl is pretty much perfect for that engine/drivetrain combo. You shouldn't have to do a ton of tuning to get it running strong and snappy. Lou |
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| Author: | hgmopar [ Mon Nov 17, 2003 2:16 pm ] |
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Thanks for all the info. I appreciate it... ok a couple more things... Dart270: you said dont run smaller than a 10" and then further in th paragraph you recommend a custom 9.0"-9.5"? Not sure if I am understang you correctly? what about carb positioning on the 4bbl. intake? I have noticed that some put it on facing the front of the veh and some people put it on facing the valve cover....which way is correct? How do I determine what year block I have? Is there a date code on the engine somewhere? And again.. Thanks for all the info... I appreciate all the answers... Thanks Hank |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Tue Nov 18, 2003 7:21 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Hank, Oops. I meant not larger than 10". 10" is a good size for a 2600-3000 stall on a Slant, and 9 or 9.5 would be better for 3500 stall. For max power, it doesn't much matter which way the carb sits. For driveability, it's better to put the primaries toward the fender. Most racers I've seen do it that way. There should be stamped numbers on the deck just behind the alternator and on the passenger side of the block. Look in Doc's block article for decoding. I've seen racers use every kind of block and get great durability (including cast crank motors), so you can probably just go with what you've got. Lou |
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| Author: | hgmopar [ Wed Nov 19, 2003 5:45 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Dart270... About the carb.... If I mount the carb with the primaries facing the fender how do I go about setting up the linkage for throttle and transmission kick-down? Is there a trick to setting it up? Thanks I am fairly new to this...... Hank |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Thu Nov 20, 2003 7:19 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
You will have to custom fabricate a linkage for the throttle linkage. On my '64 when it had the auto, I just cut the throttle linkage shaft and made a second retainer bearing about 4" in front of the firewall to support the shaft, then made a bracket to mount a Lokar universal throttle cable ($25 Summit racing). The stock KD linkage stays in place, and the throttle cable loops over the intake rearward of the carb. I will try to dig up some pics for you. Lou |
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