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where should I start to go fast and remain streetable?
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7629
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Author:  I_Lean [ Sat Nov 22, 2003 11:14 am ]
Post subject:  where should I start to go fast and remain streetable?

i have a slant 6 duster and was told i should yank it and put a v8 in there. seems like the common thing to do but cant i just build the slant 6 maybe slap on efi,a turbo,spray some nitrous? i would love to drive to the track and spank some of them v8 guys if possible.
i have already read the efi article and love it! now where should start to build?

Author:  Reed [ Sat Nov 22, 2003 1:05 pm ]
Post subject: 

Wow. I think to get a good answer you need to provide some parameters- such as what is your budget? What are you willing to do to the car? Also, some tech advice is necessary- auto/stick? Rear end size? If it is an auto, would you be willing to swap to a stick shift?

If I were you I would concentrate on building up the slant conventionally before I went to nitrous or EFI or turbos. Bore it, port the head, bigger valves, bigger cam, bigger carb, bigger exhaust, deck the head, adjust the timing curve, etc...

Reed

Author:  I_Lean [ Sat Nov 22, 2003 1:28 pm ]
Post subject: 

its all stock 225 slant 6,manual 4 o/d trans,7 1/4 rearend. im looking to go as fast as i can on bagboy wages and i want to be able to drive it to the mopar nationals without worrying.

Author:  Doctor Dodge [ Sat Nov 22, 2003 7:54 pm ]
Post subject: 

Welcome to the board.
So...what is the year and model of the car?
Super Six, free flowing exhaust, and some low rear end gears will really wake the car up.
The OD 4 speed works real well with 3.91 gears. :twisted:
DD

Author:  I_Lean [ Sat Nov 22, 2003 8:41 pm ]
Post subject: 

thanks for the welcome.
1976 duster says feather on the side of the front fenders. i take it to run 3.91 gears i will need a rearend swap?
im also curious if i was to convert it to efi what manifold works best. the one on it looks aluminum but is only a 1 bbl.

Author:  DusterIdiot [ Sat Nov 22, 2003 10:42 pm ]
Post subject:  MMMMMM...1976 Feather Duster....

A lighter later duster...good platform to work with....

With the minor mods that doc outlined you should have no problem keeping up with the others....

Your duster has some 'lighter' parts made of aluminum to keep the weight down, so you have a 'hidden' advantage.

You keep your eyes peeled at local junkyards for 1973-1976 Darts, dart sports, Dusters, Valiants with the 8 1/4" rear (round rear cover, with 10 bolt holding to the housing), this will be a direct swap and easier to get a 3.91 and a 'sure-grip unit' for it to help you 'dig in'....

Also if you don't smog in your area, removing the 'guts' out of your catalytic convertor (located in the 'box' under the driver's floor pan), will help free up your 2.25" free flowing exhaust pipe....

-D.Idiot

p.s. I would be interested in a copy of your fender tag (options list) for informational purposes, since Feather Dusters and Dart Lites aren't so common any more...Thanks! Welcome to the board.

Author:  I_Lean [ Sun Nov 23, 2003 6:43 am ]
Post subject: 

end
LE9 U A21 N37 R11 K5X
LE9 E2L3 000 A30 884202
E24 D24 VL29 C6G 131 401


what should i expect to pay for a 8 1/4 rear end? will i still be able to use my rally wheels?

Author:  Darvader [ Sun Nov 23, 2003 7:02 am ]
Post subject: 

I paid $125 for a plain Jane, .271 8 1/4" rear and $325 for a posi .321 8 1/4 " rear. It depends on condition, rear end ratio (rareness), and location. In Maryland, they have crushed most of the older cars. Yes, your Ralleys will fit. That is a VERY nice car you have. I hope it is in reasonably good condition. Of all the things I have done to slants, nothing helped my present one more than bigger valves, porting the heads, and a two barrel carb. From there you can put on a four barrel and a bigger cam. I also have the Dutra duels, but those alone didn't help a great deal. It was only after putting the 2bbl on and porting the head that mine seemed to "wake up".

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