Well, I got the new tubular A arms, and the solid mount front struts from Bill Reilly, and installed, those, along with the .089" torsion bars. The difference is pretty significant, and worth the time and effort. The parts fit perfectly, and seem to be very well built. The car now drives more like a modern car, in that it steers itself out of turns. I used to have to actively steer it out of a turn, which I hate in a car, but now the wheel wants to unwind through your hands as you exit the turn. It is a very satisfying feeling. There is also no noticable new road noise. The ride seems no more harsh. The .089" bars offer this '69 Dart with 15"X7" wheels a perfect blend of control and support. The wheels stay in contact with the road on rough surfaces, including "washboard" roads, and yet offers enough support to keep the car level in turns. It brakes better as well. It took me about six hours to install the new parts, and have fooled around with the alignment for another couple of hours. When I am satisfied that I like the rough in, I will take it to an alignment shop. I will probably spend several more hours on it before I do that. I'l let you know what specs I can get out of the alignment after that is done.

You and I have discussed and debated the pros and cons of tubular control arms. Keep me posted as i'm aquiring all the parts to upgrade to the later LBP pattern and am always open for new ideas, despite my initial response....Dave

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Troops on the battlefield have a far better view of the battle then the generals who lead them

Good review Mr Vader! Im glad to see you have retained your scientific approach.

do the tubular uca's accept the stock ball joint and bushings??
i was also thinkg of going to the tubular uca's when i convert to LBP becuase currently i dont have them. i see some companies offer the tubuar uca's with new bushings and ball joints for $300 and up depending on application. thats not a bad price if you dont already have stock ucas, that would need new bushings and ball joints anyway.

Any A-body with the correct alignment specs should self center when coming out of a turn. I doubt if the new parts made any differance in that respect. More then likely "messing" with the alignment fixed that problem.

Those strut rods look interesting and appear to be a better solution then poly bushings which seem to put more of a strain on the rods then normal rubber.

The alignment before the change was 2.5* of positive caster, as high as it could go.Yes that will make it come out of a turn with some road feel, and return, but not as much as 6* which is what it is likely to be now. The higher caster numbers make it feel more stable as speed increases as well. Bill's car has 8* of caster, and manual steering, and he says he has to steer it with two hands. The advantage of high caster numbers is it makes power steering feel more like manual steering, with more road feel. That is why Mercedes specify 6-7* of caster. Those cars have to run at over 100MPH regularly on the Autobahn. What amazes me is the figures that the Mopar manuals states for these cars of 1/4* to 1/2*. I have driven A body cars set up like that,and they are a little on the numb side concerning road feel.

Oh yeah, I forgot. The ball joints that come witht he A arms LOOK like stock, and assume they are. An equally important question perhaps is where does one get the bushings to replace the ones supplied when they wear out? I need to ask about the application for these, and make sure repacements are available. My suspicion is he used a stock application of some kind, but he might have had custom ones made. If that is the case, then I might order an extra set and keep them on hand. I will write to Bill and ask.

When you going to post information on how to contact Bill Reilly? You may be on to something here....Dave

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Troops on the battlefield have a far better view of the battle then the generals who lead them

www.bigblockdart.com

He runs that site and sells the Alterk-tion and UCAs there.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

One minor negative: the urethane bushings squeek. I am wishing I had gotten the units with the heim joint style bearings now. Does anyone here know of a lubricant that will quiet the urthane down? The squeek is not terrible, but I would like to lube them if possible.

Vader,
These tubular UCAs, along with a front end re-build are on my winter "to do" list. Do you know if there is any difference in ride harshness between the poly and bearing arms? I'm not sure what they mean when they say "severe duty". Also, do you know if they are $50 more per pair or each?
Bob D

Hi Bob. I do not know about the ride harshness. I am pretty sure the price differential is per pair. I can tell you I could detect no appreciable increase in road noise with the solid strut rod ends. I am a piano tuner by trade, so I tend to really listen to noise in a car. It was fear of harshness that kep me from buying the bearing end A arms. Bill is a very friendly guy, and is quite willing to talk on the phone. Give him a call and ask him what he thinks. He has had both in his car. I think in retrospect, I would buy the bearing end A arms. My 360 car has all poly front end, and the two of them have about the same ride and noise now, which is to say, not much. Then again, it has been a long time since I have had a car with all OEM bushings in the front.

I just ordered the solid strut rod bushings and am waiting for them to arrive. Did you get the ones you thread onto solid rods?

Has anyone tried the LCA bushing from FirmFeel with the grease fitting on the end of the bolt that goes through the k-member.

Mike

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1965 Valiant 200 /6 2dr Sedan.
1965 Valiant 200 V8 4dr Wagon
1965 Barracuda /6
1965 Valiant Convertible V8

I got the tubular strut rod with the solid aluminum bushing. I didn't want to cut my solid strut rods up, just in case I wanted to return it to stock some day I REALLY like the fitting in the LCA urethane bushings. Mine wore out because moisture got in there and rusted things. A grease fitting would solve that.

Vader,
I looked on the Big Block Dart site but couldn't find anything about tubular strut rods or the LCA with the urethane bushing grease fitting. What am I missing?
Bob D