Vader,
I used a ¼" supply line tapped between the oil filter and oil pressure sending unit with a "T" to feed oil to the turbo (turbo is from a '85 Buick in my case). For the return line I got an adapter from Road Race Engineering ( www.roadraceengineering.com , Garret oil drain flange with 5/8" hose barb fitting, $13) that attached to the oil return on the turbo. This allows the use of a 5/8" hose in place of the metal return line that was used on the Buick turbo, but which was not suitable for my application. I used an AN-10 braided hose for the return line. The return line relies on gravity and because the oil from the turbo is "foamed up" and not under pressure after passing through the turbo, the hose should be at least 5/8" in diameter. For this reason I would not use the dipstick hole. In my opinion the most practical place for the oil return is the oil pan. I found the best place to drill a hole in the pan was through the hole in left front motor mount. I used this location because it was the only place above the oil level in the pan that I could reach with an electric drill. I drilled a ½" hole at this location and "self tapped" a 1/2" pipe nipple into the hole. I fitted the pipe nipple thread that tapped into the pan with a "nut" from a ½" electrical pipe and used an oil plug gasket to seal the fitting from the outside of the oil pan. I then used a ½" pipe coupler to attach a ½" pipe thread to 5/8" hose adapter from Home Depot to the coupler. Doing this brought the nipple out far enough that I could easily attach the hose with a hose clamp. This seems to work very well with no problems during the first year of use. To make the hole I used a hole saw that retained the drilled out plug. Of course these don't always retain the plug but I doubt that the plug in the crankcase would cause a problem. I used a couple of cans of engine flush to flush out any metal filings before adding fresh oil and running the engine. You might be better off removing the oil pan to do this. But on my car that would have require removing the steering linkage.
I felt that it was important to use a turbo designed for an engine the same size as my 225 CID SL6. This would ensure that the turbo will be reasonably efficient and will not introduce excessive heat into the intake air. Also, 10 lbs. of boost from a smaller turbo doesn't translate to the same HP gains as a large turbo with 10 lbs. of boost. This is because the smaller turbo will not only create more heat but also more exhaust backpressure and consequently introduce some additional power loss. I got my turbo from a junkyard. Any turbo that you get from a salvage yard will most likely need to have the center section rebuilt. You can purchase rebuild kits, or you can purchase an already rebuilt center section. The rebuild kits do not include the turbine and compressor wheels. The rebuilt center sections do, and in my opinion this is the most cost-effective way to go. The re-built center sections are referred to by the acronym CHRA (Center Housing Rotating Assembly). I purchased mine for $125 from MJM Auto Parts, Inc., 11535 Sipsey Valley Road North, Buhl, AL 35446 (800-331-0616). This was by far the lowest price that I have seen and they had center sections for many different applications. I have often seen "core" turbos on the Buick web sites ( www.turbobuick.com and www.turbobuicks.com ) for as little as $50. Of course you'll have to add in the cost of shipping a 20-pound turbo. Be sure that any Buick turbo you buy includes the exhaust elbow. Also, if you go with other than a '84 or '85 Buick turbo, check with MJM to be sure they have a CHRA for the turbo you are using.
I don't think you have any options for electronic control of the turbo with a MS ECM. However, the GM ECM does provide for knock detection and the subsequent control of ignition timing as well as boost control through a wastegate solenoid.
Bob D
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) this high of an AR would create a fair amount of turbo lag down low. Do I have this backwards? Comments on this?